Sep 13 Viana, 20km

 In total there was a slight elevation gain from the start and end of today's trek, but there were lots of ascents and descent. Julie does well on the ascents, but is cautious on descents to avoid slipping on the loose gravel. I on the other-hand, hate the ascents, and am always well behind Julie. But I thrive on the descents. Overall it was exhausting for me, and given today's hot weather, lots of liquids were consumed.

The long morning shadows.

Our friends from Australia- Carol, George, Ted, Liz, Julie and Mario

Pilgrim rest stop

But what a surprise when we arrived to Viana. The last day of a 5-day festival was underway, with the running of the bulls. It all seems quite cruel, the bull is caged and just before releasing it is tasered to get it angry. Young men then torment the bull, and run away as soon as the bull charges them. 

After a while of torment, the bulls are released onto the street where young men run away with the bulls in pursuit. No one seems get hurt. During intermission it is interesting to watch young children imitating the young men who hide behind the barriers when the bull charges.

Bulls exiting the ring.

Bulls returning to the ring.

Large puppets used in the celebration. Adults are inside to mobilize the puppet.

Twins Martina and Mario enjoying the festival 

Puppets operated by children

Sept 12 Los Arcos, 21km

It was a pleasant day to start the trek -  cool and cloudy.  Leaving the town of Estella we passed the river and a great view of medieval buildings. The Trek took us through newer communities and eventually into farm lands, primarily wheat fields. But a sprinkle of vineyards and olive orchids. The trail is primarily gravel, which means I'll be spending another evening removing pebbles from Julie's shoes.

There was a special stop along the way- fountain of wine (fuente de vino). The monks own a vineyard and have wine on tap. It's 10:00 in the morning and therefore people are just taking small sips. 

http://www.irache.com/en/enoturismo/fuente-del-vino.html

This is new, entertainment on the camino

Los Arcos is a small town, with a busy plaza next to the church. Many pilgrims converge on the plaza for food and refreshments. A time for acquaintances to reflect on the day and tell stories of past caminos.

Julie makes a friend

Welcome to Los Arcos, now give me food!

The pilgrims converging on the plaza

He from Sweden, she from NY

Mass for pilgrims at 8am

Sept 11 Estella, 22km

It was an overcast looking day even though the forecast was for sun with a few clouds. A great looking day for me but not for Julie who is expecting sunshine for the Camino. Before leaving Puente la Reina we stopped at a coffee and pastry shop along the way, and what a delightful treat! Great coffee and a walnut and raisin pastry.

We exited the town over the medieval bridge and followed a relatively flat terrain, which eventually started to climb - a 200m elevation gain. A piece of cake for Julie, but I was struggling to keep up. There were a few rest stops along the way. One bar we found was overpricing their food and drinks.  I was vocal to the staff that I didn't appreciate their high prices. He was unfazed by my comments. At another bar/albergue we enjoyed a Spanish tortilla and beer and at a very reasonable price.

Estella is a relatively big town - population over 13,000, but it doesn't appear large, only a few plazas, and a limited number of restaurants. It has nature trails along the river, but after walking 22km, walking the river is the last thing we want to do. A simple dinner and off to bed by 10pm.

Sept 10 Puente de Reina 25km

We've been waiting to start the Camino, but much of our excitement was dampened by a rainy morning. Not the start we expected,  but that is life on the Camino - you must take the good with the bad. The day prior we had met a young girl who postponed her trek for a day due to rain. A bit naive and she may never complete her goals due to small setbacks. 

The trek today was challenging, with a 400m elevation gain. The grade was gradual and a good workout. At the top of the hill were the famous metal sculptures of pilgrim travellers and a very windy and cold greeting. The descent was more challenging. The mud and wet rocks provide a recipe for disaster and therefore the descent took much longer. But once we reached the bottom of the hill there were many cafes waiting, allowing us to celebrate our achievement.

Highway to Hell AC/DC, and many other '70s hits being sung in the plaza, as we sat on our patio enjoying appetizers and champagne, to celebrate Julie's birthday. Puente de Reina is an interesting little town made famous by its bridge. As the story goes, a long time ago, a local was overcharging residents for taking them across the river. The queen (reina) of the region commissioned the building of the bridge that put the greedy local out of business. Today (Sunday) there was an event featuring motor bikes in the plaza, which included a feast for the bikers and band in the evening. We took a walk along the main street (Calle Mayor) were there were many pilgrims enjoying tapas and local wines.

Happy Birthday Julie! 

Julie was touched by her sister's card, which she opened in the morning. And a happy ending to the day with the restaurant staff acknowledging her by presenting Julie with a cake and singing Happy Birthday (in Spanish of course). It was an almost a perfect birthday had not her husband left his card and gift at home. My bad! My brain at 5am does not function without clear written instructions.