Sunday, September 30, 2012

Week 3 Spotorno – ban spandex


It was an amazing morning – blue skies and no wind, and we finally get to leave Finale. And this was another amazing trek, following a much more rugged coastline and going through the picturesque village of Noli, which is lined with beautiful palm trees along the sea walk. Today I wanted to acknowledge the bike riders, and being Sunday there were many more on the road. Mostly men of all ages and sizes, and most in their colourful bike attire – spandex jersey and shorts. Not a pretty site for some of the oversized riders. It’s a very popular sport and what a surprise today. As we were making our way along the road to Noli, hundreds of riders came whizzing by without warning. There were so many riders we could feel the wind as they flew past, just as is seen on the tour d’Italia. It was a bit of a scary moment due to the number of riders and the speed they were travelling. 

It was very easy to find our hotel today. Days before I do a Google map search or use an Italian hotel search web site and get the names and phone numbers of reasonably priced and highly rated (70% or better) hotels. We were booking ahead the first few nights, but realized that finding accommodations during this period is not a problem. Therefore, if we decide to stop I’ll go through my list, and we’ve always been able to find a room – and usually with breakfast, on average for 60 Euros a night.

The town of Spotorno is designed slightly different from other towns we’ve passed. The town is separated by a main road and uses a series of underpasses to cross the street. We strolled the beach passing children on a trampoline attached to a harness like in circus training, and men playing volleyball. And because of the rugged coastline there were many fishers on the rocks, but I’ve yet to see anyone catch a fish. We enjoyed our hotel room, which has a large patio that allowed us to have lunch and enjoy a glass of wine in the afternoon sun.
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Day 2 in Finale because of a rock slide that blocked our way to Spotorno and Day 3 in Finale due to heavy rains and strong winds. The wind was so strong it moved all the patio chairs. And what do you do when it rains? Eat and drink of course. Not a healthy choice but it was fun. 

Friday, September 28, 2012

Week 3 Finalborgo ("**it happens")


Forrest Gump once said, “it happens". Well today “**it” happened. Having just had a hardy breakfast we left Finale Ligure happily, and sticking with our plan to walk the shoreline. It was such a beautiful day for trekking – the sun shining and the cool breeze coming off the sea. So what could go wrong? After walking for about 6km we encountered a road closure due to a rock slide. The workers were unsure when it would be cleared so we walked back about 2km to the nearest town and decided to take the bus back to Finale Ligure. We went back to the hotel and told the owners about the road closure, and they already knew about the rock slide. But it all worked out for the best. We even got a better room than last night, and after lunch we visited the village of Finalborgo. What a beautiful town, which has kept it historical charm with narrow streets, grand piazzas with cafes and restaurants, churches and a medieval castle on the hilltop. Like Forrest Gump, we made the best of a bad situation and we were pleasantly surprised. Hopefully the slide will be cleared by tomorrow. Otherwise we may have to stay in Finale another day, which would not be so bad as we have found restaurants to try out.
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Thursday, September 27, 2012

Week 3 Finale Ligure


The trek was extremely pleasant this morning. We followed the coastline all the way and all four villages – Loano, Pietra Ligure, Borgio Verezzi and Finale Ligure are linked by a planned walkway. No walking on the road today, which can be precarious at blind turns. All villages along the way have their unique charm and too bad we can’t stay longer. Borgio Verezzi is known for its grottos, but we had to move on. Our final destination Finale Ligure is a town worth stopping at. It has beautiful beaches and a great walk through the medieval town that stretches for a few kilometers. There are many beautiful churches with spectacular artwork. We followed a sign to an old castle, but ended up walking to the top of a hill and no castle was found. We found the castle on the way down, but not much left except for a few walls.

I have to say something about the food...I’ve been trekking for two weeks and I don’t think I’ve lost a single pound. Yes, it’s the food and wine...just too good to resist the daily temptation.

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Week 3 Loano


We were pleasantly surprised this morning when checking out. The manager offered us breakfast at no charge. What a treat! There were all sorts of pastries, cheeses and yogurt.  Wow, the coffee was super strong this morning. I should have ordered hot water on the side to dilute the coffee. The trek took us through the farm areas – on the advice of a local resident who said it would be a shorter route to Ceriale. We arrived in Loano, our final destination, and needed to ask a few people to get directions to our hotel. It’s a maze in many of the small towns, and often, most native Italians know the exact directions. Unfortunately not all streets have names posted and therefore I usually need to ask more people along the way for direction.

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Tuesday, September 25, 2012

Week 2 Alassio


Today’s trek (17km)  followed the shoreline going through two small villages (Androa and Laigueglia) before our final destination. All three towns have construction projects underway to improve and/or enhance the beauty of their shoreline and town. What is sad to see is the closure of many of the beach areas. This is the sign that summer will soon be over. Even though the temperature is in the mid-20s, beach umbrella and chair vendors are dismantling their beach cabanas and power washing their chairs. Everything is being carted away and stored in warehouses, but will be reassembled again in 2013 in time for the next wave of tourists. Life in Alassio is very typical of our last stay in Diano Marina. The difference seems to be in the tourists. Diano Marina attracts more tourists from England, and Alassio from Germany. 
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Sunday, September 23, 2012

Week 2 Diano Marina


Life is great! I can’t believe we are experiencing such a beautiful trek. This is the first visit to this area of Italy and we are truly amazed by its beautiful coastline. Being in the Italian Riviera I had expected difficulty finding accommodations, but this has not been the case. This is the shoulder season and I would imagine that in July and August all accommodations would be full. Julie is already talking about coming back for a month next September/October. After finding our hotel we took a 4km walk to Cervo, a well preserved hill-top medieval village with a beautiful church at the summit. The village is filled with artist shops and cafes. Our afternoon lunch was on the beach with food from a local deli that included a bottle of Italian wine...this the truly La Dolce Vita!

We decided to stay an extra day in Diano Marina and explore more of the town. We discovered a few streets off the beach area with many shops and restaurants. It was a pleasant stroll passed Cervo were we discovered a bar perched on the cliff and with a small beach area a few meters below.  We returned back to the hotel for lunch and within minutes of our return the rain came down hard with continues thunder. This lasted for about two hours and then the sun came out and there was little evidence of the rain. There is a British tour group staying in our hotel – approximately 40 people, and that evening they had a live musician entertaining. There was too much noise heard from our room and therefore we decided to join in on their fun. Their bus driver was quite an entertainer himself doing some crazy dances and imitating celebrities. We danced to closing time.
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Week 2 Imperia


What a beautiful walk today! We decided not to go the mountain route, but instead travel the seaside old rail line walkway. The sun was shining and the wind was blowing, which made for a pleasant trek. We passed Santo Stefano and stopped at their street market and enjoyed a coffee pastry. The trek took us through 1.5km tunnel and in a few locations there was water trickling down and over the years stalactites had formed on the wall. After 17 km we arrived in Imperia. Julie waited at a bench while I searched for our accommodations. This was the most difficult Pensione to find, located on the outskirts of the old town and hidden behind the church. Pensione S. Giuseppe is run by the church and we were surprised how modern the rooms were. Imperia (old town) covers a hill overlooking the ocean. There are many places of interest and therefore we decided to stay an extra day. Much to my delight as my right knee is getting sore, and a day’s rest (and Ibuprofen) will help.
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Saturday, September 22, 2012

Week 2 Taggio


The trek today was filled with two accents and two descents for about 15 km. We started from Sanremo heading up hill passing many green houses overlooking the beautiful coastline. What a fantastic view! We also passed by many fig and apple trees and we were able to pick a few along the way. We passed by a local resident who was working in his garden and we chatted about our heritage. He was born in the same province as me (Abruzzo) but while many left his village for N. America, he head to Sanremo. It was obviously a good choice – he has plenty of land that overlooks the ocean and his is property is now worth 5 million Euros. As we were leaving he gave us a handful of chilli peppers. We weren’t sure if we could use them but we did – they added a little zest to a ham and cheese sandwich. The final trek down to Taggio was exhausting and Julie was having difficulty dealing with some of the steep trails. We also lost the trail and ended going down a different part of the hill, but reconnected as we made our way to Taggio. This is another typical Italian town, built 100s of years ago, and filled with many archways and narrow streets, with many people hanging out laundry outside their windows. It’s quite a sight and I’m sure it is typical of all Italian cities.
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Week 2 Sanremo


We decided to start our trek in Sanremo, because we could not find accommodations at our original destination. We only stayed on day because Julie was eager to start trekking, which was unfortunate because it was place to spend a few days. Sanremo has a beautiful coastline with a long walk and bicycle path that was once the old rail line and following the coast for a over 20 kilometers. The vegetation is very plush with lots of palm trees and tropical plants. It was also fun to walk streets in the evening with some streets blocked off to cars, many families doing their evening walk (passigata).
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Week 2 Genova


We arrived in Genova  by train from L’Aquila and a young man helped us find our hotel. He was returning to university and was glad to show us the way. Genova is smaller than some other Italian cities, but it has its own special charm.  The waterfront is not so great, but in the city centre there are many narrow roads filled with cafes, bars, bakeries and stores selling all sorts of merchandise, and there are plenty of squares with fountains, churches and museums.
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Week 2 Starting the Trek - Capestrano bus pick up


Saying good by to Kevin and Heather
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Week 1 The Reunion - Abruzzo Homecoming Weekend in Villa Santa Lucia, Carrufo and Ofena


The Reunion was held over three days in three neighbouring villages – Villa Santa Lucia, Carrufo and Ofena, with each location offering something different. Unfortunately we missed the first day’s event in Ofena because our bus arrived a half hour prior to the event starting. It had rained all day and when we arrived it was a torrential down-pore and we got soaked looking for someone to give us a ride to Ofena. Ofena has a wine industry and therefore visitors experienced a taste of their local wines and a history of the region.  Day 2 was in Villa and the official picnic day. Unfortunately it started to rain at noon and the event moved into the Municipal Hall where we were given a history of the region and a video presentation of Villa’s history. There were also tours of the cemetery for those looking for their ancestral graves. The day’s event was concluded with a hosted reception with a variety of pastries prepared by the local community. The last day was hosted by Carrufo, which started with a guided walk around the village, which included a visit to Michael Buble’s grandmother’s house. This was followed with an outdoor mass at La Croce. Carrufo hosted a fantastic party with local foods that included a roast pig and local wines, and sangria prepared by Gianni Mariani (our B&B host). The party concluded at approximately 9pm, but a few remaining people made their way to a local resident’s house where the party continued, with a spaghetti dinner and more wine. Overall, regardless of the rain, the Abruzzo Homecoming Weekend was a success and I’m sure most in attendance learned more about their heritage. 

There were some new information I learned during this visit. A key reason for returning to Villa Santa Lucia was to connect with relatives and learn a little more about my heritage. Much to my regret I did not pursue this objective earlier in life – always too busy with work and family, and putting it off until I had more time. Unfortunately my mother passed away quickly in 2009 hence my key information source disappeared. Therefore the visit to Villa was essential to conclude my search for information and to put closure to my curiosity. I also wanted to learn more about those other Aburzzesi who left Villa and about those who returned.
I’d like to start by discussing our family house in Villa Santa Lucia. Julie and I had dinner with Saverio, the current owner of our family house and he was able to provide a description of the process and challenges he indured acquiring various properties.  He purchased a total of three properties; all attached, and joined them to create one larger home. Our home was the main building structure, with the remaining two attachments. One attached property was destroyed by neglect by the prior owner – with the roof and wall collapsed. Saverio began his project in 1992, and 20 years later he is close to completion, and it is an amazing transformation. He also bought land in Carrufo where he planted grape vines and began the renovation of the cellars in his Villa home to accommodate the equipment needed to process his own wine. Again, he has done an amazing job, which included the purchase of stainless steel wine press and tanks, and built a wine cellar to house the wine from various years. We got to taste his 2011 wine that was still in the barrel and ready for bottling. It was delicious!
Saverio described that in the early to mid 1900s there were approximately 3000 residents, with multiple families living in a single dwelling, and therefore the wave of immigrants that went to Canada and other parts of the world was beneficial to Villa because it thinned out the population, and when they returned they could afford their own home. There were two waves of immigrants – one around 1900, which was when Papa Luigi came to Canada to work and when he returned he was able to purchase his home.  It is unclear when the house was purchased, but Saverio did find carvings on wood beams with “LM 08/31/1928”) that probably belong to my grandfather Luigi Mazziotti. This is the house where my mother and dad lived after getting married and where we lived prior to immigrating to Canada in 1956. The second wave of immigration took place after WII. Except this time very few returned. Hence the population was devastated, and today there are between 100-200 residents. In the second wave there was very little to come back to, and many immigrants had established communities in their new country. This was the case in Vancouver and I’m sure in other communities.  However, those that immigrated to European countries had an advantage because of the proximity to Villa. My own cousins Victoria and Evenia, who live in Paris and Pescara are able to come back to Villa every year during July and August.

Week 1 The Reunion - L’Aquila


We arrived in Rome and headed straight to L’Aquila for a few days before going to Villa Santa Lucia for the reunion activities. I was born in L’Aquila, and yes it is true, my twin brother(Luigi) was born nine hours earlier in Villa. Unfortunately L’Aquila has lost most its historical beauty following the earthquake on April 6, 2009. There has been much restoration work, however it is ongoing and will probably continue for the next few decades. Some locations look like a war zone, with many buildings boarded up, support beams holding major retaining walls and houses held together by steel cables. It was very sad to see the amount of destruction; however I didn’t realize that Julie would become so emotional. Over 300 people died during the earthquake and most families in the heart of L’Aquila had to leave their homes. One of the areas restored is the Fontana delle 99 Cannelle, which at one time was the local area where women went to wash their cloths. The fountain is rectangular, with three of the walls having the 99 fountain spouts – each with a human face sculpture.