To Salamanca 16km Stage 15

September 26-27

A beautiful walk from Morille going over rolling hills. It was cool with a beautiful mist over the water as the sun came over the mountain. The sun making a red glow in the sky. After 4.5 hours we entered the medieval city of Salamanca and trekked our way passed the magnificent cathedral and onto Plaza Mayor to find our hotel. It's such a magnificent city and worth staying an extra day to enjoy.

Salamanca is a great city to explore - lots of monuments to see and many tasty cafes and restaurants to try their local foods. What is annoying are the crowded streets. On Friday they were full of university students and on Saturday the city was buzzing with tour groups. A big difference to the many small villages we've passed through, where only a few locals were seen walking the streets.

See Salamanca pics

To Morille 32km Stage 14

September 25

Today was our longest trek to-date. We left our Albergue at 8am with the temperature at 8 degrees centigrade -the coldest morning yet. But the sun was shining which made for a great trek, going through many ranches and rolling hills. After 3.5 hours we were thankful to reach our first town and enjoyed coffee and chicken wings. We reached our second village 2 hours later and found a bar with a beautiful courtyard. After 8 hours of trekking we reached our destination and met some peregrinos from the previous night. A long day, but it was so wonderful. I noticed at tonight's dinner that the cuisine has changed to more of the local recipes. I had chicken done in a beer sauce. So good!

See Morille pics

To Fuenterroble de Salvatierra 19km Stage 13

September 24

This was the best walking day, going through beautiful countrysides and still seeing old Roman markers along the path. It was very enjoyable today walking with Linda and Michael sharing stories of our personal and work lives. This trek was made more enjoyable with stops at two small village bars for coffee and snacks. The sun was shining and the air was cool, which made for a fabulous walk. We arrived at our Albergue in Fuenterroble, which is eclectic. It is a parish Albergue run by paid and volunteer staff with hippy-like hosts. It was so much fun participating in a communal dinner with each peregrino bringing something to share. We met many new peregrinos today and sharing stories of our travels. It is more fun when the Albergue has more peregrinos.

See Fuenterroble de Salvatierre pics

To Calzada de Bejar 20km Stage 12

September 23

We left our Albergue with Linda, and Michael catching up to us a few hours later. The trek had a gradual elevation gain this morning going through the picturesque town of Banos de Montemayor, hosting the Roman  baths. Unfortunately we only had time for a coffee break. And how friendly the locals where towards us, some older men giving advise on which trails to follow. We decided to follow the guide book. Hard to believe we were walking on paths built by the Romans over 2000 years ago. The large stones are uneven now and many of the markers on the sides of the path are still standing today, but thousands of people walk this ancient path each year. It was another fantastic day that ended with a group dinner at the Albergue. It was also Linda's 67th birthday and our host and husband celebrating their 19th anniversary.

See Calzada de Bejar pics

To Aldeanueva del Camino 24km Stage 11

September 22

The first 6km today went through more farmlands-mainly cattle ranches until we reached the Arco de Caparra, the ancient Roman ruins. It was a major city during its time of Emperor Augustus, but now it's a archeological dig sight and a restored archway that is spectacular. The site attracts many visitors, including local hiking clubs that make Caparra their turn around point. The remaining 13km went through open fields and and a few water hazards. It had rained the day prior and therefore the creeks were high. Julie gets anxious when there is a chance of falling in. We arrived in Aldeanueva and met up again with Linda and Michael who we met a few days prior.

See Aldeanueva del Camino pics

To Oliva de Camino 19km Stage 10

September 21

Leaving Carcaboso was a challenge as the streets and sidewalks were littered with empty cups and bottle. And there were many young people still partying on and some making there way home looking very tired. After about ten minutes searching for the way markings we finally made our way out of town and it was long, but for the first 13km a very pleasant trek. The terrain was rocky with huge boulders scattered amongst the fields, and in the fields were cattle or orchards of acorn trees and cork trees. We saw trees in the distance with a copper coloured trunk and as we got closer we could see that the lower bark was removed. The bark is very thick and ideal for making bottle corks. Made our way into Oliva and doesn't appear that the peregrinos we met yesterday are coming to this town. Not surprising. It's Sunday and all the stores are closed and only one bar that serves food. This is good for as we have the entire Albergue to ourselves.

See Oliva de Plasencia pics

To Carcaboso 11km Stage 9

September 20

Today's trek was going to be either 11km or 29km. We chose option 1, and thank goodness. There was a party going on in Carcaboso. They were celebrating two saints - San Jovita and San Faustino. And what a fiesta! There were about six locations set up around the village with music, and serving tapas, beer and wine. There were so many people and some of the dancing going onto the street. The music was loud, and could be heard from our Albergue. I think it ended after 5am.

See carcaboso pics

To Galisteo 20km Stage 8

September 19

We woke up to a heavy down-pour and many of the early starters waited for the rain to subside. Seeing no end to the rain, all the peregrinos left except for us. Most we'll not see again as they are travelling long distances today. We left at day-break and the rain had eased a little, but it was not an easy trek, travelling through mushy trails. It was a beautiful countryside but we could not appreciate its beauty as our objective was to stay dry. By late morning the rain stopped and we enjoyed the remaining trek into Galisteo. And what an amazing little village! The old town perched on a hill surrounded by medieval walls. Unfortunate the municipal Albergue was closed, and thankfully Hotel Medina was on the outskirts of town. Our own private room and with a bathtub. The small pleasures Julie always looks forward to.

See Galisteo pics

To Grimaldo 17km Stage 7

September 18

An uneventful trek and not much to see as the camino followed the service road to our destination. We were one of first to arrive to the Albergue and due to the weather, more peregrinos stopped. The Albergue accommodates 12 and I think there were 10 beds taken. Because we arrived ahead of most peregrinos we were able use the washing machine and hang up our laundry, but minutes later the rain came down again. There's nothing worse than carrying heavy wet clothes and therefore everyone was delighted when sun came out for the rest of the day. The bar is next door and they accommodated us for a 7pm dinner -the traditional peregrino special - first and second course plus dessert and wine all for 9 euros. Made new friends this evening mostly from Germany.

See Grimaldo pics

To Embalse de Alcantara 21km Stage 6

September 17

Today's trek took us through a barren farmland of very dry rocky terrain. It is an area with many sheep farms and there was evidence along the way with many droppings on the path. The rock formations were huge and the wind and weather erosion has created some strange formations. This was almost a good day for trekking. In the morning it was overcast and very comfortable walking. However in the last hour of the trek there was a down-pour of rain. We got soaked. After an hour of arriving to our Albergue the sun came out drying up all the rain. (Sounds like the itsy bitsy spider nursery rhyme) But what a beautiful location! The Albergue sits on the hillside with a spectacular view of the lake.

See Embalse de Alcantara pics

To Casar de Caceres 11km Stage 5

September 16

We decided not to trek 32km today and break the next stage in two parts. Hence today was relatively short and Casar de Caceres, we discovered is a delightful little town, very narrow and stretching for a few km. The first, and more modern Albergue was full (comleto in Spanish). So we checked into the municipal Albergue, but discovered 30 minutes later we were across the street from the town bell, which went off twice every hour. The first chime scared me to death, it was so loud. Then wondered if we would have to endure this all night and morning, but its chime stopped after 9pm and resumed at 7am.  Thank goodness! We finally met an English speaking peregrino - Melane from Australia. She started the camino with two friends but quickly became separated because of medical issues. Each is now completing the camino on their own schedule. I'm sure this happens often as we met another walker who, for whatever reason also separated from friends. And its possible on the camino to hook up later in other town.

See Casar de Caceres pics

To Caceres 22km Stage 4

September 15

We walked in a relatively easy terrain, up until we reached Caceres where it's old town is perched upon a hill. We were exhausted when we reached the top but we were greeted by the most beautiful medieval town, with its huge plaza below with many trendy bars and restaurants, and surrounded by the most beautiful churches and museums. The Plaza Mayor was busy with many tourists enjoying tapas and sangria. "How sweet it is!" (Jackie Gleason) We found our accommodations and enjoyed dinner in the Albergue courtyard.

See Caceres pics

To Aldea de Cano 15km Stage 3

September 14

Today was a relatively short walk hence we slept in until 6:30 and enjoyed coffee and churos (the donut equivalent but long instead of round) at the local cafe. Many of our peregrino friends left much earlier and went further than us today, but we'll probably meet up with them in a few days in Caceres.

Today was even more pleasant because of the cool breeze and frequent rest stops along the way. However being Sunday there were no stores open, but thankfully the bars and cafes were open. They do a booming business on Sunday.

See Aldea de Cano pics

To Alcuscar 19km Stage 2

September 13

We left our accommodations at 7am, the last of the peregrinos to leave. It was still dark and therefore went to the bar for coffee and breakfast. Hard to believe many people start walking so early in the dark for 1-2 hours to reduce sun exposure. Yes it's cooler but that is way too early for us and easier to miss waymarkers inthe dark.

The trek today was through the hills and it was interesting how, as the terrain changed so did the vegetation. The first half of the day was through orchids of acorn trees and the last part through orchids of fig trees, olive trees and vineyards. Of course the latter vegetation enjoying the hot climate we just entered.

The highlight of the day was our stay at Acogida Convento Esclavos de Maria y de Los Pobres Albergue. This old convent, besides offering accommodations, houses the mentally and physically ill. It was a humbling experience at the evening mass to have some of the patients and hospital staff also participating in the mass. This was followed by a special blessing by the priest to the peregrinos. Afterwards the peregrinos had a communal dinner of soup, salad, pork steaks and fruit. What a feast!

See Aluescar pics

To Aljucen 15 km Stage 1

September 12

It was a beautiful walk leaving Merida as we passed the aqueducts just as the sun was rising. It was an incredible sight! We eventually made our way to the reservoir with the dam built during the Roman era, and still functions today but as a beach resort rather than a water supply.

We made our way over the many hills and valleys passing orchids of acorn trees. It was a hot day and the first rest stop was 10km into our trek, but there were no bars. Eventually reaching our destination we enjoyed our cool shower and cold beer and wine from the local bar. There's nothing that beats a cold drink in the shade!

See Aljcen pics

Merida

September 10

The Roman ruins dominate the Merida's landscape with a long foot bridge spanning Rio Guadiana, the very impressive Teatro Romano, the Temple de Diana, aqueduct, dam and many other archeology sites. It is a very beautiful city with many cafes, restaurants and trendy shops, but the effects of the economic downturn is very obvious - restaurants competing for customers by offering many specials, and there are shops closed down and many for sale and rental signs. Too bad, as Merida has so much to offer!

See Merida pics

Madrid, Spain

September 8

Arrived in Madrid in the late afternoon feeling very tired after 12hours of travel with a 3.5 hour lay-over in London. The train and metro connections into central Madrid was relatively easy. The trains were crowded hence there many opportunities for would-be thieves. There are many warnings about pickpockets and sure enough one (ladrón) tried, but badly failed his attempt on Julie. She gave him a fierce tongue-lashing. It was in English, but even if he didn't understand the words, I'm sure he got the message clearly. However, this incident did not ruin our day. It was just part of our adventure.

I'm sure the would-be thief was a gypsy but there are many gypsies in Madrid that earn a more honest living. One morning there was a large group of gypsies in Puerta del Sol. I'm sure they were there to get their job assignments for the day, just as we would in a departmental meeting back home. They all then head off to their jobs. The younger girls with their beauty dance and charm the passer-byes for money. Older ladies, who have lost their beauty would beg on the street and on the church steps. The gypsies are not well respected, but those with talent will have a better lifestyle. Some telling fortunes with tables and crystal balls in the Park Retiro, or playing music in the park or busy plazas, and many with excellent musical skills.

See Madrid pics