The Italian Cammino Completed

Unfortunately, all good things come to an end, and this vacation has been an amazing experience. This Italian trip was much different than our visit in 1977 and 1987, where we focused our time in larger cities – Rome, Florence, Venice, Pisa, etc. This vacation we focused our visit to smaller villages in the province of Liguria, traveling by foot along the coast to almost 30 villages. During this visit we experienced Italy’s natural beauty. We highly recommend this trip for anyone wishing a similar Italian experience, and you can follow our blog for information (2012 September and October).

Also, the reason of the Italian visit was to attend the Abruzzo Homecoming Picnic (September 14-16). This was an opportunity for me to revisit my home town of Villa Santa Lucia, and a highlight was a visit with Saverio who bought my parent’s home. It was quite an emotional experience for me to re-enter the home I lived in from 1950-56.

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Week 6 Roma

In the six weeks in Italy we've spent most of our time in small villages and a few larger towns. Life was very tranquil; therefore we were in shock when we arrived to Rome. We expected a congested airport and train station, but we were shocked by the number of tourists on the street and popular attractions. Up to now we have been exploring Italy’s natural beauty and many remote historic sites, and therefore we were not prepared for this experience. Don’t get me wrong. Rome is a beautiful city, but somehow large crowds are a big turnoff. We were constantly worried about pick pockets and a tourist we met at the La Spezia train station described how she was picked by a team of young girl and women. It was not pleasant walking about and not trusting anyone. The second day in Rome was much better as we went to the Coloseum and Vatican before noon to avoid the larger crowds. The walk along Tiber River was very enjoyable as both sides of the river are underneath large trees that line the path. Very cool on a hot day.

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Week 6 La Spezia, Riomaggiore, Manarola and Monterosso

When leaving the train station, the first impression of La Spezia is not very flattering. It’s harbour is mainly a working port, with a small area to stroll and sit and watch fishers on the shore, often with three fishing rods going at a time. However, there is an interesting old town that comes alive in the evening with many children playing in the plaza and young adults (HS and University) in the cafes, and adults strolling the shopping district. La Spezia turned out to be a good spot to stay and still visit the Cinque Terre group of towns. By train it is minutes away from Riomaggiore, the first of the Cinque Terre villages, the accommodations in La Spezia are more plentiful and less expensive, and there are more restaurants and activities during the evening. I highly recommend staying in La Spezia for anyone wishing to explore Cinque Terre.

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We arrived to Riomaggiore by train, along with many other tourists. It’s a very popular stop for bus tours and the harbour was swarmed by a wave of tourists. Riomaggiore is set in a tiny harbour with apartment buildings covering the hillside. It’s a great place to visit for a few hours. There are walking trails linking all five villages along Cinque Terre, unfortunately the shoreline route was closed due to a rock slide and damage from the 2011 flood. Therefore to reach other villages an upper trail can be used.

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From Riomaggiore we walked to Manarola and passed many vineyards along the hillside. This area prides itself of its local wines. Along the way we met up with a mother cat that looked like was ready to deliver her babies. Manarola has a larger harbour and this time of year all boats have been pulled from the water, covered and stored on the shore. We found a spot on the rocks and enjoyed our lunch of bread, cheese and wine. What a delightful day!

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I didn’t find Monterosso as picturesque as other Cinque Terre villages. It’s attraction is mainly the beachfront, but we’ve seen better in our trek. Since the shoreline trail was closed we decided to try hiking a mountain trail, but the one we chose was not well maintained. It was a steep climb and many of the step stones were gone. After an hour of climbing we stopped and decided to return to the village. Unfortunately, with many of the steps missing, the hike down was even more difficult. Once we reached the village we found a beautiful spot on the beach and enjoyed our lunch. Fortunately that day there was someone close by playing beautiful music on his electric keyboard, which made lunch that more enjoyable.

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Week 6 Levanto

Levanto is a mirror of the last town, Moneglia, except in a larger scale and more expensive. This town is a popular point for hikers as a base for trips to Cinque Terre. When we arrived by train we were met with a mob of day-trippers were getting on the train. Regardless of the numerous announcements by train officials to let people off the train before boarding, either people don’t listen; they don’t understand Italian or they don’t care. It was a bit of a battle to get off the train. Once we found our hotel, we ventured to Bonassola a few kilometers away and accessible by an old rail line converted to a pedestrian and bicycle path. The coastline here is rugged and so beautiful. The surf is high and therefore there were many surfers enjoying the waves. On our way to Bonassola we met three of the friendliest cats, which was a highlight for Julie. In the evening many people lined the beachfront to enjoy the afternoon sun and watch the sun set. We met a couple from Germany who were enjoying their last day in Italy with a special ice cream and a glass of champagne.

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Week 5 Moneglia

Hard to believe this is our last trek making our way from town to town. We have completed our planned hikes in the province of Ligure (Italian Riviera) and will now be traveling by train and do daily hikes in the last week of our stay in Italy. Today was tough as we climbed a hill for about 3 km before it leveled off for another 3km, and then a 5.5 km decent to Moneglia. The views from the hilltop were excellent and we passed vineyards and many olive orchids with some starting to harvest by placing nets throughout the orchid to collect the falling olives. We only saw a few farmers picking their olives, but were not able to see the full process.

Along our trek we’ve seen many pictures of wedding couples posted on trees and posts along the street. We were not sure about this custom, but today we saw a series of pictures along the route and discovered when we reached a B&B that the pictures were guiding people to their ceremony. Unfortunately after the wedding no one collects the pictures and they remain on trees and posts until they fall off. We’ve seen pictures on trees dating back three months.

Moneglia is another beautiful borgo (village) with a beach and surrounded by mountains on all sides. By car it can be reached by two methods – one being the normal highway route, and the other through a series of tunnels 6km long. The tunnel road was built from an old rail line and is very narrow, with room for only one car width. Hence, there is a stop light at each end, and every 20 minutes the light changes to green, which allows cars from one direction to go through.  

It so happened that today the Italians were celebrating Octoberfest; with lots of beer and serving BBQ sausages and roasted pork, which we participated in.

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Week 5 Sestri Levante

We just learned today that all the trails linking the towns in Cinque Terre are closed due slide damage. This news was a big disappointment as this area was the highlight of our trip. Hence we decided to stay in Sestri Levante a little longer and take advantage of the local mountain hiking opportunities. S. Levante is a beautiful town with a long beachfront, but it was another beach, not visible from the town that was more interesting. The beach (Bay of Silence) is small and tucked away, but has lots of benches and a few bars/restaurants to sit and enjoy the beauty.

Our trek to Punta Manara was eventful, as Julie is squeamish when it comes to steep rocky trails. We went slowly and therefore took a little longer, but we eventually made it to our destination. On the return trip Julie did not like the trail and therefore we went a different route, which was not on my map. We were never lost, because I could see the town from the mountain top, but I didn’t know where the trail would lead us. The trail followed a tried up creek, and was equally steep and dangerous in certain areas. We came across a local hunter who helped us find our way. He was searching for wild pigeon that were migrating through Italy, but he told me that the timing was not quite right and therefore no success today. Much to Julie’s relief, we eventually found our way back to S. Levante.
The wedding crashers...yes we dropped in on a wedding ceremony and besides throwing confetti of rice and little paper cut-outs, also included were candies and fancy macaroni noodles. The candies were cleaned up quickly by all the kids.
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Week 5 Chiavari

Chiavari is not the typical small village we have seen along our trek. It is a large town with a population of over 30k and has a more modern design of their streets – that go straight as opposed to the twisted streets of medieval villages, which are challenging, but more interesting for tourists. But Chiavari does have an old town that is also very unique to other towns we have visited. The streets are straight and there is a covered walkway on both sides of the street, with many archways. The walkways go for about half a km and are covered, hence keeping it cool during the summer and protected in the rainy season. This covered walkway design has been adopted in the newer districts. It also appears that Chiavari is trying to improve its waterfront by building long and interesting walkways, and cleaning up the harbour area to attract beachgoers. With all the construction, it is not a pleasant sight but once complete it will be a great destination for beach and boat lovers.

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Week 4 St. Margherita Ligure and Portofino

Today was the most pleasant walk...we were not carrying our backpacks!! It was a great walk passing by the most beautiful landscaped homes. We realized that we entered the “crème de la crème” district, with amazing homes just meters to the sea. The trek started along the sea walk and moved inland to a trail matching the beautiful homes. When we reached Portofino it was not surprising that prices doubled for souvenirs and restaurant food.

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Week 4 Rapallo

The trek from Camogli was intense and it took us about two hours to reach the hilltop town of Ratu that was only 2 km away.  But what a view from the top! The coastline it long and clear and we could see all the way to Genova. We had reached the same height the day before when we walked to St. Rocco without any backpacks. It sure makes a difference when carrying 35 and 45 pound backpacks. The climb up seemed endless.

The remaining 8 km was relatively easy as we descended into Rapallo, another coastal town that is surrounded by mountains. It is a beautiful setting and we’ve decided to stay an extra day to explore the village of St. Maurgarita that is only a few kilometers away.

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Week 4 Camogli

There are days when we arrive in a town and we are in awe with its beauty, but somehow Camogli is different. In contrast Camogli grasped our soul. It is set on a rugged hillside and therefore is a tourist attraction, however there are many people living at the water’s edge. Many people are enjoying the water – fishers, kayakers, [serious] swimmers, little children, lovers and vacationers. And there are cafes and restaurants on the city harbour that attracts many people at night. It is hard to imagine that on October 6, 2012 we would be sitting on the beach enjoying the sunset. Dreams do come true!

We loved Camogli so much we decided to stay another day and take a day-hike on the local mountain. We were looking forward to the hike but knew it would be a difficult one - which it was. It was straight up, following stairs and passing resident homes. Hard to believe people live on this mountain, because the only access is by foot, donkey (which I didn't see any) or motorbike (which there were many). On the way up we passed a elderly women with a large bag (sack) of buns making her way slowly to her home. Unfortunately, after an hour and half the path started to get little dangerous and therefore we decided to return to Camogli. And as it turned out I didn't take any pictures because I left the camera memory card in the computer. I had to cheat and download a photo from the Internet.

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Week 4 Genova and Nervi

Genova has a boating event from October 6 to 14 and therefore I thought this would not be a good time to stay in Genova with so many people. Much to our surprise we discovered that many of the hotels in outlying areas have been booked for this event. Hence it was difficult to find accommodations in Nervi, but we eventually we did, but at a much higher price than Genova. It is not surprising, given the beauty of the area. Nervi is a town that stretches along the sea side, with a small inner harbour. The boats are all stored away and the only boats we saw were kayakers practicing in the sheltered harbour. We bought a bottle of wine and some ice cream and enjoyed the afternoon in the harbour. Nervi also has a long boardwalk that stretches for 4 km, to the next town of Bogliasco that we will pass by tomorrow. The highlight of the day was my mishap on the rocky shore. It is such a beautiful shoreline and we walked down the steps leading to the water’s edge. Julie was ready to take my picture, but as I stepped the rocks I went sliding on my butt. Two men came to help and Julie made sure she got my picture.

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Week 4 Arenzano

Hard to believe we have completed three weeks of our holiday already. How time flies when having fun. Today we found a beautiful hotel in the town of Arenzano. The room was large and clean, and with a large patio that allowed us to spend a few hours in the afternoon and evening enjoying the sights and sounds of the town.

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Week 3 Varazze

Today all of Italy’s buses were on strike for the day. As we left Savona, there was a line up of cars 2 km long crawling into the city all the way from the nearby village of Albisola. There was one taxi in the line up and I’m sure that ride was an expensive one. It would have been easier and quicker for people to walk or take their bikes, which some were, but obviously not enough. This was a day to phone in sick. The trek today was another splendid one, walking the coastline and going through an old rail line tunnel. The towns in this region are all connected with well maintained walkways, which many people today were enjoying – including one large hiking group we encountered. We arrived in Varazze and booked into Hotel Lido that is located across from the beach, and what a spectacular view from our room! The town of Varazze is small compared to Savona, but bigger than other towns we passed today. There are many places to shop and eat, but like many other sea-side towns we wondered about the crowds during the summer months. It would be amazing to experience the hustle and bustle (and possible chaos) during that time. It is very quiet now and we wonder how so many restaurants survive during the low season.

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Week 3 Savona

The one observation trekking the coastline is the number of natural grottos caused by constant pounding of the surf. From the trail it is sometimes possible to see the waves came in and then a few seconds later a burst of sea-spray comes out from a hole in the rock. There are also some grottos that have stairs leading down to the water and it’s possible to swim into the caves. Unfortunately it was a too rainy today to consider this adventure. Julie doesn’t think I would do it! If the conditions were right, I just might.

Savona is a relatively large city and therefore not as picturesque as the smaller towns along the coast. Our hotel is on the beach and with a view of the water from our room. Hotel Ariston is in a great location, but a bit outdated and therefore could use some remodeling. Regardless, we ventured around town to visit Fortress Priamar perched on top of a hill with a 360 degree view of the mountains and coastline. There are many beautiful churches to visit, and none built in the modern day would compare with those built hundreds of years ago.

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Week 3 Spotorno – ban spandex

It was an amazing morning – blue skies and no wind, and we finally get to leave Finale. And this was another amazing trek, following a much more rugged coastline and going through the picturesque village of Noli, which is lined with beautiful palm trees along the sea walk. Today I wanted to acknowledge the bike riders, and being Sunday there were many more on the road. Mostly men of all ages and sizes, and most in their colourful bike attire – spandex jersey and shorts. Not a pretty site for some of the oversized riders. It’s a very popular sport and what a surprise today. As we were making our way along the road to Noli, hundreds of riders came whizzing by without warning. There were so many riders we could feel the wind as they flew past, just as is seen on the tour d’Italia. It was a bit of a scary moment due to the number of riders and the speed they were travelling. 

It was very easy to find our hotel today. Days before I do a Google map search or use an Italian hotel search web site and get the names and phone numbers of reasonably priced and highly rated (70% or better) hotels. We were booking ahead the first few nights, but realized that finding accommodations during this period is not a problem. Therefore, if we decide to stop I’ll go through my list, and we’ve always been able to find a room – and usually with breakfast, on average for 60 Euros a night.

The town of Spotorno is designed slightly different from other towns we’ve passed. The town is separated by a main road and uses a series of underpasses to cross the street. We strolled the beach passing children on a trampoline attached to a harness like in circus training, and men playing volleyball. And because of the rugged coastline there were many fishers on the rocks, but I’ve yet to see anyone catch a fish. We enjoyed our hotel room, which has a large patio that allowed us to have lunch and enjoy a glass of wine in the afternoon sun.

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Day 2 in Finale because of a rock slide that blocked our way to Spotorno and Day 3 in Finale due to heavy rains and strong winds. The wind was so strong it moved all the patio chairs. And what do you do when it rains? Eat and drink of course. Not a healthy choice but it was fun. 

Week 3 Finalborgo ("**it happens")

Forrest Gump once said, “it happens". Well today “**it” happened. Having just had a hardy breakfast we left Finale Ligure happily, and sticking with our plan to walk the shoreline. It was such a beautiful day for trekking – the sun shining and the cool breeze coming off the sea. So what could go wrong? After walking for about 6km we encountered a road closure due to a rock slide. The workers were unsure when it would be cleared so we walked back about 2km to the nearest town and decided to take the bus back to Finale Ligure. We went back to the hotel and told the owners about the road closure, and they already knew about the rock slide. But it all worked out for the best. We even got a better room than last night, and after lunch we visited the village of Finalborgo. What a beautiful town, which has kept it historical charm with narrow streets, grand piazzas with cafes and restaurants, churches and a medieval castle on the hilltop. Like Forrest Gump, we made the best of a bad situation and we were pleasantly surprised. Hopefully the slide will be cleared by tomorrow. Otherwise we may have to stay in Finale another day, which would not be so bad as we have found restaurants to try out.

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Week 3 Finale Ligure

The trek was extremely pleasant this morning. We followed the coastline all the way and all four villages – Loano, Pietra Ligure, Borgio Verezzi and Finale Ligure are linked by a planned walkway. No walking on the road today, which can be precarious at blind turns. All villages along the way have their unique charm and too bad we can’t stay longer. Borgio Verezzi is known for its grottos, but we had to move on. Our final destination Finale Ligure is a town worth stopping at. It has beautiful beaches and a great walk through the medieval town that stretches for a few kilometers. There are many beautiful churches with spectacular artwork. We followed a sign to an old castle, but ended up walking to the top of a hill and no castle was found. We found the castle on the way down, but not much left except for a few walls.

I have to say something about the food...I’ve been trekking for two weeks and I don’t think I’ve lost a single pound. Yes, it’s the food and wine...just too good to resist the daily temptation.

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Week 3 Loano

We were pleasantly surprised this morning when checking out. The manager offered us breakfast at no charge. What a treat! There were all sorts of pastries, cheeses and yogurt.  Wow, the coffee was super strong this morning. I should have ordered hot water on the side to dilute the coffee. The trek took us through the farm areas – on the advice of a local resident who said it would be a shorter route to Ceriale. We arrived in Loano, our final destination, and needed to ask a few people to get directions to our hotel. It’s a maze in many of the small towns, and often, most native Italians know the exact directions. Unfortunately not all streets have names posted and therefore I usually need to ask more people along the way for direction.

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Week 2 Alassio

Today’s trek (17km)  followed the shoreline going through two small villages (Androa and Laigueglia) before our final destination. All three towns have construction projects underway to improve and/or enhance the beauty of their shoreline and town. What is sad to see is the closure of many of the beach areas. This is the sign that summer will soon be over. Even though the temperature is in the mid-20s, beach umbrella and chair vendors are dismantling their beach cabanas and power washing their chairs. Everything is being carted away and stored in warehouses, but will be reassembled again in 2013 in time for the next wave of tourists. Life in Alassio is very typical of our last stay in Diano Marina. The difference seems to be in the tourists. Diano Marina attracts more tourists from England, and Alassio from Germany. 

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Week 2 Diano Marina

Life is great! I can’t believe we are experiencing such a beautiful trek. This is the first visit to this area of Italy and we are truly amazed by its beautiful coastline. Being in the Italian Riviera I had expected difficulty finding accommodations, but this has not been the case. This is the shoulder season and I would imagine that in July and August all accommodations would be full. Julie is already talking about coming back for a month next September/October. After finding our hotel we took a 4km walk to Cervo, a well preserved hill-top medieval village with a beautiful church at the summit. The village is filled with artist shops and cafes. Our afternoon lunch was on the beach with food from a local deli that included a bottle of Italian wine...this the truly La Dolce Vita!

We decided to stay an extra day in Diano Marina and explore more of the town. We discovered a few streets off the beach area with many shops and restaurants. It was a pleasant stroll passed Cervo were we discovered a bar perched on the cliff and with a small beach area a few meters below.  We returned back to the hotel for lunch and within minutes of our return the rain came down hard with continues thunder. This lasted for about two hours and then the sun came out and there was little evidence of the rain. There is a British tour group staying in our hotel – approximately 40 people, and that evening they had a live musician entertaining. There was too much noise heard from our room and therefore we decided to join in on their fun. Their bus driver was quite an entertainer himself doing some crazy dances and imitating celebrities. We danced to closing time.

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Week 2 Imperia

What a beautiful walk today! We decided not to go the mountain route, but instead travel the seaside old rail line walkway. The sun was shining and the wind was blowing, which made for a pleasant trek. We passed Santo Stefano and stopped at their street market and enjoyed a coffee pastry. The trek took us through 1.5km tunnel and in a few locations there was water trickling down and over the years stalactites had formed on the wall. After 17 km we arrived in Imperia. Julie waited at a bench while I searched for our accommodations. This was the most difficult Pensione to find, located on the outskirts of the old town and hidden behind the church. Pensione S. Giuseppe is run by the church and we were surprised how modern the rooms were. Imperia (old town) covers a hill overlooking the ocean. There are many places of interest and therefore we decided to stay an extra day. Much to my delight as my right knee is getting sore, and a day’s rest (and Ibuprofen) will help.

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Week 2 Taggio

The trek today was filled with two accents and two descents for about 15 km. We started from Sanremo heading up hill passing many green houses overlooking the beautiful coastline. What a fantastic view! We also passed by many fig and apple trees and we were able to pick a few along the way. We passed by a local resident who was working in his garden and we chatted about our heritage. He was born in the same province as me (Abruzzo) but while many left his village for N. America, he head to Sanremo. It was obviously a good choice – he has plenty of land that overlooks the ocean and his is property is now worth 5 million Euros. As we were leaving he gave us a handful of chilli peppers. We weren’t sure if we could use them but we did – they added a little zest to a ham and cheese sandwich. The final trek down to Taggio was exhausting and Julie was having difficulty dealing with some of the steep trails. We also lost the trail and ended going down a different part of the hill, but reconnected as we made our way to Taggio. This is another typical Italian town, built 100s of years ago, and filled with many archways and narrow streets, with many people hanging out laundry outside their windows. It’s quite a sight and I’m sure it is typical of all Italian cities.

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Week 2 Sanremo

We decided to start our trek in Sanremo, because we could not find accommodations at our original destination. We only stayed on day because Julie was eager to start trekking, which was unfortunate because it was place to spend a few days. Sanremo has a beautiful coastline with a long walk and bicycle path that was once the old rail line and following the coast for a over 20 kilometers. The vegetation is very plush with lots of palm trees and tropical plants. It was also fun to walk streets in the evening with some streets blocked off to cars, many families doing their evening walk (passigata).

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Week 2 Genova

We arrived in Genova  by train from L’Aquila and a young man helped us find our hotel. He was returning to university and was glad to show us the way. Genova is smaller than some other Italian cities, but it has its own special charm.  The waterfront is not so great, but in the city centre there are many narrow roads filled with cafes, bars, bakeries and stores selling all sorts of merchandise, and there are plenty of squares with fountains, churches and museums.

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Week 2 Starting the Trek - Capestrano bus pick up

Saying good by to Kevin and Heather

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Week 1 The Reunion - Abruzzo Homecoming Weekend in Villa Santa Lucia, Carrufo and Ofena

The Reunion was held over three days in three neighbouring villages – Villa Santa Lucia, Carrufo and Ofena, with each location offering something different. Unfortunately we missed the first day’s event in Ofena because our bus arrived a half hour prior to the event starting. It had rained all day and when we arrived it was a torrential down-pore and we got soaked looking for someone to give us a ride to Ofena. Ofena has a wine industry and therefore visitors experienced a taste of their local wines and a history of the region.  Day 2 was in Villa and the official picnic day. Unfortunately it started to rain at noon and the event moved into the Municipal Hall where we were given a history of the region and a video presentation of Villa’s history. There were also tours of the cemetery for those looking for their ancestral graves. The day’s event was concluded with a hosted reception with a variety of pastries prepared by the local community. The last day was hosted by Carrufo, which started with a guided walk around the village, which included a visit to Michael Buble’s grandmother’s house. This was followed with an outdoor mass at La Croce. Carrufo hosted a fantastic party with local foods that included a roast pig and local wines, and sangria prepared by Gianni Mariani (our B&B host). The party concluded at approximately 9pm, but a few remaining people made their way to a local resident’s house where the party continued, with a spaghetti dinner and more wine. Overall, regardless of the rain, the Abruzzo Homecoming Weekend was a success and I’m sure most in attendance learned more about their heritage. 

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There were some new information I learned during this visit. A key reason for returning to Villa Santa Lucia was to connect with relatives and learn a little more about my heritage. Much to my regret I did not pursue this objective earlier in life – always too busy with work and family, and putting it off until I had more time. Unfortunately my mother passed away quickly in 2009 hence my key information source disappeared. Therefore the visit to Villa was essential to conclude my search for information and to put closure to my curiosity. I also wanted to learn more about those other Aburzzesi who left Villa and about those who returned.

I’d like to start by discussing our family house in Villa Santa Lucia. Julie and I had dinner with Saverio, the current owner of our family house and he was able to provide a description of the process and challenges he indured acquiring various properties.  He purchased a total of three properties; all attached, and joined them to create one larger home. Our home was the main building structure, with the remaining two attachments. One attached property was destroyed by neglect by the prior owner – with the roof and wall collapsed. Saverio began his project in 1992, and 20 years later he is close to completion, and it is an amazing transformation. He also bought land in Carrufo where he planted grape vines and began the renovation of the cellars in his Villa home to accommodate the equipment needed to process his own wine. Again, he has done an amazing job, which included the purchase of stainless steel wine press and tanks, and built a wine cellar to house the wine from various years. We got to taste his 2011 wine that was still in the barrel and ready for bottling. It was delicious!

Saverio described that in the early to mid 1900s there were approximately 3000 residents, with multiple families living in a single dwelling, and therefore the wave of immigrants that went to Canada and other parts of the world was beneficial to Villa because it thinned out the population, and when they returned they could afford their own home. There were two waves of immigrants – one around 1900, which was when Papa Luigi came to Canada to work and when he returned he was able to purchase his home.  It is unclear when the house was purchased, but Saverio did find carvings on wood beams with “LM 08/31/1928”) that probably belong to my grandfather Luigi Mazziotti. This is the house where my mother and dad lived after getting married and where we lived prior to immigrating to Canada in 1956. The second wave of immigration took place after WII. Except this time very few returned. Hence the population was devastated, and today there are between 100-200 residents. In the second wave there was very little to come back to, and many immigrants had established communities in their new country. This was the case in Vancouver and I’m sure in other communities.  However, those that immigrated to European countries had an advantage because of the proximity to Villa. My own cousins Victoria and Evenia, who live in Paris and Pescara are able to come back to Villa every year during July and August.

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Week 1 The Reunion - L’Aquila

We arrived in Rome and headed straight to L’Aquila for a few days before going to Villa Santa Lucia for the reunion activities. I was born in L’Aquila, and yes it is true, my twin brother(Luigi) was born nine hours earlier in Villa. Unfortunately L’Aquila has lost most its historical beauty following the earthquake on April 6, 2009. There has been much restoration work, however it is ongoing and will probably continue for the next few decades. Some locations look like a war zone, with many buildings boarded up, support beams holding major retaining walls and houses held together by steel cables. It was very sad to see the amount of destruction; however I didn’t realize that Julie would become so emotional. Over 300 people died during the earthquake and most families in the heart of L’Aquila had to leave their homes. One of the areas restored is the Fontana delle 99 Cannelle, which at one time was the local area where women went to wash their cloths. The fountain is rectangular, with three of the walls having the 99 fountain spouts – each with a human face sculpture.  

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Week 11-12 April 1-10 Bucerias – Final Days – Final Thoughts

It’s hard to believe we have been living in Bucerias for three months – sun and fun every day, and the time went by so quickly. We missed our family and friends, but it would have been depressing being at home for the three months dealing with the cold and damp winter in the BC lower mainland. Many of our friends also escaped to warmer climates and we stayed in touch with Skype and emails, as we also did with our grandchildren. And of course we made many new friends while in Bucerias, which has been the highlight of our trip. We shared many moments together at daily happy hours, potluck dinners and visits to local restaurants. There have been many unforgettable moments and highlights to remember, such as:

• Sisters Julie and Shirley spending two weeks together
• The release of sky lanterns that filled the sky during a wedding ceremony
• Long walks on the beach and stopping to join a volleyball game
• Swimming in the ocean
• Watching fishers and divers each day in front of the condo
• Watching hundreds of pelicans for a week in front of our condo feasting on fish
• Watching kite surfers and sail boats fill the bay
• Watching sunsets every day
• Observing the blessing of the boats, which included a festival, carnival and dancing horses
• Bar-top dancing at the Drunken Duck (seniors gone wild)
• Visits to Puerto Vallarta, La Cruz and Sayulita
• Valentine’s Day celebration in PV old town
• Going to the local Sunday markets
• Bartering with the locals
• Helping a street dog find a suitable home – thanks Leslie and Kosta for adopting Libra
• Feeding and making friends with the street cats 

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Week 11 Bucerias – Who let the dogs out!

The Mexicans love their special breeds, such as pit bulls, boxers and chihuahuas, but don’t care for mutts, which end up on the street living off the generosity of humans. It seems like the non-Mexicans (gringos) have an affinity for abandoned dogs, which we experienced while in Bucerias. There are three dogs highlighted that were all adopted by Kosta and Leslie:

Mamma was a street dog taken in by Leslie and Kosta to keep their new boxer (Coqueta) company. The name ”Mamma” was given her because Coqueta was still a teenager and Mamma provided the development for her. Mamma belonged to a local resident, but was spending more time with Coqueta, and eventually adopted by Leslie and Kosta. As it turned out Coqueta got pregnant and gave birth to 11 puppies, which Mamma helped to nurture. When old enough, Coqueta’s pups were given away, but, during an outing Mamma, Coqueta, and one of her pups got lost but only Mamma returned home.

Cleo was found in a ditch, possibly hit by a car. Leslie and Kosta took care of Cleo, bringing her back to health.. This is one cute, but crazy dog. Cleo was very young when found; hence Mamma was able to take her under her wing.

Libra was the latest dog adopted by Leslie and Kosta. She first appeared at Vista Bahia and became very friendly with the residents, who fed her. Libra (so named by Kosta and Leslie) was very skinny, and only when a resident had her spaded did they discover 11 puppies, which were aborted. Libra and the puppies would never have survived the birth. As it turned out Libra became the premier guard dog for Kosta and Leslie.

Now there are four females in Kosta’s life – Leslie (the best of them all), Mamma, Cleo and Libra. Thank you so much for your generosity and adopting the three dogs.

 Check out Picasa Week 11 photos Dog Day (CTRL+Link to open in a new tab)

Week 10-11 March 16-31 Bucerias – Dining Out

Dining out in Bucerias is great experience, with many restaurants to choose from. Below are our favorites or highly recommended by friends. I’ve also listed a few restaurants in Puerto Vallarta worth visiting.

Bucerias casual dining

Saiya – Asian cuisine – try it if you are tired of Mexican food – great Thai

Los Pericos – breakfast, lunch and dinner

Luna Luna – popular breakfast and lunch, with musicians on the weekend

The Fat Boy Seafood – on the beach, great for lunch and lounge chairs

Sweet Things – popular for breakfast and lunch

Yo Yo Mo's Pizza and Sports Bar – great pizza

Drunken Duck – great for their music and dancing (Sunday at 6pm)

Flaky's Fish and Chips – try it if you are tired of Mexican tacos

Fine dining

Sandrina's – very romantic setting for dinner

Karen's Place – popular for breakfast, lunch and dinner

El Brujo – romantic setting, local cuisine at a reasonable price

Check out other Bucerias restaurants at TripAdvisor

Check out other restaurants close to Bucerias: TripAdvisor

Check out http://www.bestofbucerias.com/ for other information about Bucerias.

La Cruz (Close to Vista Bahia)

Philo’s – casual dining – pizza and ribs, with great music

Mariscos El Coleguita – a very popular traditional Mexican restaurant – big portions and inexpensive

Puerto Vallarta Restaurants – Day trip to PV

We’ve not stayed in PV for over 7 years, but we take day trips in from Bucerias 2-3 times month. The walk along the Malecon and old town is beautiful. However there are far too many people in PV and the reason we no longer stay in town, however we do love a few restaurants when we visit.

Fusion Gourmet

Across from Hotel Tropicana (old town), one block from the beach in a beautiful garden setting

#1 choice, fine Mexican cuisine at a reasonable price

La Pena Andaluza

Close to the bridge overlooking the river and markets below

Traditional Spanish tapas and cuisine at a reasonable price

Zoirahuen Café

Pino Suarez No. 217 (old town)

Fine Mexican cuisine at a reasonable price, however only open after 5pm

Cheeky Monkey

On the Malecon, with great views of the ocean

The food is okay

Dollar margaritas are the draw, but forget it, stick with the beer (also a dollar) or try the restaurant across the street Paradise Burger

Week 9 March 9-15 Bucerias About the Coconut Tree

Did you know that the word “coconut” is derived from the Portuguese and Spanish term “Cocos”, meaning “ginning face”. Take a look next time you get a coconut and observe the three small holes on the coconut shell that resemble human facial features. The coconut is delicious. When green the milk is delicious, but when ripe it is the nut “meat” that is used for cooking or eaten raw. Without a machete the nut husk is difficult to crack, but it can be done – with a large screw driver puncture the skin and pry a small piece and continue to do this for the entire husk. Take the seed and smash it against the concrete to crack the shell, and then scoop out the meat with a sharp knife.

The coconut tree is a large palm growing up to 30 meters tall and the tree can yield about 75 fruits per year. As the tree grows, old leaves break away, leaving the trunk smooth. The tree is a natural resting spot for birds, but also for iguanas, which is the case at Vista Bahia. An iguana is seen climbing the tree on a regular basis.

The coconut tree creates a beautiful setting that is photographed by many tourists. The tree is seen in the background of many family photos and is especially beautiful during sunsets. However the tree can be dangerous as the nuts can fall without warning, hence many resorts and property owners have the nuts removed to avoid damage to property. This is the problem at Vista Bahia, when the nuts fall on the palapa roof and break the tiles. Therefore the gardeners come to prune the tree, which is interesting to watch. The gardener, who is barefoot, climbs the tree like a monkey and while perched at the top cuts away the nuts and older leaves. There is no safety harness, but the gardener seems to be agile and able to easily maneuver amoungst the branches. What was interesting about the visit to Vista Bahia was the surprise of the gardener when the iguana jumped from the top of the tree to the palapa roof. The iguana survived, but two more tiles where broken.

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Week 7-8 February 23-March 8 Bucerias About Vista Bahia Suites

I wrote about Vista Bahia Suites in the Week 1 blog, but would like to provide a little more information about the building’s unique characteristics, but I would be remiss if I didn’t first describe the town of Bucerias.

Bucerias – I ❤ this town

We first discovered Bucerias about 10 years ago, while taking a day trip from Puerto Vallarta. We were impressed with Bucerias’ beaches, with its low surf and hard-packed sand. Also, the town was typical of a traditional Mexican town, not yet spoiled by large resorts. However, that has changed, but compared to Puerto Vallarta which is a beehive of thousands of tourists from many resort hotels and cruise ships, Bucerias is still a quaint little town, which attracts artists and visitors looking for a slower pace life style. The beaches go for many miles, which allows us to take many long walks, and Bucerias is perfectly positioned with easy access to Puerto Vallarta to the south and La Cruz, Sayulita, Punti de Mita, San Poncho and Rincon to the north – all accessible by bus.

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About Vista Bahia Suites

Life at the Vista Bahia Suites is quite unique, and visitors will either hate it or love it. Vista Bahia is located on the outskirts of Bucerias and therefore away from the hustle and bustle of the town centre; making for a very quiet experience, except for some noisy trucks that drive by, which is often muffled by the sound of the waves crashing on the shore. Vista Bahia was originally a hotel, which opened in the mid-1980s and converted in the mid-1990s into a residential strata, with all units individually owned. Most owners have done extensive renovations, and only a few units remain in their original state. Also over the years many of the units have been purchased by Canadians and many of the renters/visitors to Vista Bahia are from Canada and northern US -- those wanting to get away from the harsh winters.

We came to Bucerias about eight years ago, first staying at the Royal Decameron, an all inclusive resort. We fell in love with the beach and the unique lifestyle of Bucerias and returned a few years later and stayed at Vista Bahia, unit 104, the best studio unit in the complex. I refer to the unit as the sentinel position, which allows a view of the natural beauty and strategically located that allows the meeting and greeting of residents making their way to/from the beach and/or pool. The large balcony allows guests to come regularly. In our third trip we stayed in a different unit, on the second floor and enjoyed a new perception of the natural beauty. But regardless of the unit location, there is always an awesome view of the ocean and wildlife. There are various birds of prey feasting on fish and sometimes there are glimpses of whales in the distance. There are fishermen who often place their nets in front of Vista Bahia and in the morning come to collect their bounty – with pelicans always in pursuit. Also, oyster divers are seen most mornings. Their black inner-tubes are sprinkled along the landscape about 20-30 m offshore, and the banging of their hammers are heard as they separate the oysters from the rocks they bring to the surface. A few hours later they arrive to the shore and take their catch to the local restaurants, either on their bike with a milk carton attached to the back or in an old beat-up truck.

While at Vista Bahia we have made many friends and have shared many happy moments. It has been a wonderful experience, which has included stories about family and friends. We have participated in evening events and pot luck dinners, which has allowed us to share wonderful recipes. Life doesn’t get any better than this, especially when the daily temperature is 25-30 degrees Celsius. We enjoy the healthy lifestyle while in Bucerias – fresh air, sunshine, long walks and delicious (fresh) foods.

Check out Picasa Week 8 photos about Vista Bahia (CTRL+Link to open in a new tab)

Check out Picasa Week 8 photos about Vista Bahia Pot Luck Dinner (CTRL+Link to open in a new tab)

Week 6 February 15-22 Bucerias Happy Hour

The primary reason we are in Mexico is to experience the culture, however we are pulled back each year because of the many friends we’ve made in Vista Bahia. It has now become like a family where we share the fun and laughter, and the sadness of losses. The social time each day is a highlight to share stories and discuss the day’s events. For example today Rose had a fish almost fall on her lap while sitting by the pool. Apparently a large bird swooped down and picked up a puffer fish from the ocean. It flew overhead and the fish puffed up and was able to release itself from the birds grasp. However it landed in a plant pot that was next to Rose…the fish died on impact. I’m happy to report that Rose has recovered from the shock.

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Week 6 February 15-22 Bucerias Market

Anyone visiting a traditional Mexican market will see similar items for sale – vegetables, fruits, cloths, shoes, hardware, kitchenware, electronics, puppies and purple chicks. Yes, purple, yellow and green chicks! Only in Mexico! The market is very popular with the locals who are purchasing many of the items on sale.

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Week 5 February 14 Valentine’s Day in Puerto Vallarta

Being in Puerto Vallarta on Valentine’s Day is a must-do. The hotels and restaurants on the beach in the old town are so tightly packed – they all blend into each other, sometimes not knowing where one restaurant starts and the other begins. Often it is the colour of the chairs or tablecloth that differentiates each one.  However on Valentine’s Day they all appear to be one establishment when each palapa is decorated with garish Valentines. It appears that the 2012 VD celebration involved a contest with the best (garish) palapa. There were bottles of champaign and roses on many tables. It was a fun day, which ended with dinner at a Spanish restaurant(La Pena Andaluza) by the river. It was very romantic table – overlooking the river and market below.

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Week 3&4 January 27 - February 10 Bucerias – fun with friends

Friends come in many forms, but mostly human, but, as usual, Julie has made friends with a few cats that we are feeding almost every day. It’s amazing how Julie can quickly domesticate a feral cat.

While in Bucerias we’ve made new friends from all over N. America. Many are in our age group and are regular visitors to Bucerias, leaving their frigid climate and coming to Bucerias to have fun in the sun. I was a bit shocked to see some people (who probably have grandchildren) going wild at the Drunken Duck pub. What son or daughter would think their highly mature parents are having wild parties and dancing on bars (as they did in Coyote Ugly)! I haven’t danced on bars yet, but, given enough booze and encouragement, it might happen eventually.

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Week 2 January 21-26 Bucerias (Blessing of the boats)

This is a perfect time to come to Bucerias, January 16-24 for the festival of Our Lady of Peace, patron Saint of Bucerias. There are celebrations which included a visit by the carnival with many rides, vendors and foods. It is a crazy time, with the carnival taking over many of the streets in the centre of town. There were nightly fireworks and the celebration was concluded on the last day with the blessing of the boats – when colourfully decorated boats, with balloons and flowers arrive across the bay from La Cruz de Huanacaxtle to Bucerias. This year, for the first time, the boats were preceded by four swimmers and two paddlers. What an awesome experience! The beach was filled with on-lookers waiting for arrival of the boats. Each boat’s arrival on the shore was met with applause from the crowd. The surf was high, making their arrival to shore-line very difficult. When all boats arrived there was a procession to the church led by the village priests.

While the boats where arriving, there was a procession of the local horse riders. They were awesome, with many of the riders on horses trained to dance to the music of the marching band. This is a must-see event.

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For more information about the Bucerias festival check out the following link.

http://www.pvmirror.com/fromthenorthshore/213/ladyofpeace.html

Week 1 January 11-20 Bucerias

Let Your Worries Drift Away and Celebrate Your Freedom.

We were pleasantly surprised when Craig and Shirley (Julie’s sister and brother-in-law) decided to book 2 weeks with us, and extremely fortunate to book a suite close to ours. This was the first time we’ve been on vacation together and the first time in Mexico (not counting a day visit to Tijuana) for Shirley and Craig. We were not sure if they would enjoy the Mexican culture and the lifestyle at Vista Bahia, but it appears they fit right in, especially when Shirley was able to properly pronounce “Bucerias” and Craig knowing how to tell the bus driver where to stop “pare a Star Bay por favor”. What fun in the first week, which included visits to Puerto Vallarta, La Cruz and Sayulita, and on January 19 we celebrated with 20 other guests and owners from the condo with a potluck dinner. The night was very special, with a wedding being celebrated next door. They had miniature hot air balloons (also called sky lanterns) being released that filled the sky. Each guest lit their lantern fuel pad, made their wish and released them. The lantern’s skin was transparent and therefore all these lanterns in the dark sky made a beautiful sight. What an awesome evening! We were able to obtain two of the sky lanterns, which were released into the sky by Shirley and Mario. 

Shirley has adapted very quickly to bartering with the local merchants, and able to find the right vendor at a suitable price.  Shirley mastered the art of “walking away”, with merchants often chasing her to make the sale.  Well done Shirley!

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About Bucerias

Bucerias is located north of Puerta Vallarta and Nuevo Vallarta, but is more of the typical Mexican town rather than a tourist destination live PV and NV.  There are a few resorts at the south end of Bucerias, but the centre of town is more traditional – with beach front restaurants and many merchants selling souvenir trinkets, and only a few fine dining restaurants.  There is church at the city centre, but the souvenir vendors dominate the area. However change is happening. Older buildings in the centre of town have started to disappear, being replaced by high-rises.

The beaches are great with many miles north and south to walk, and warm waters for swimming.  There's also high surf in some areas and great for buggy boarding.  And there's lots of wild-life with eels, rays and puff fish on the shoreline.  Fishing is good from the shore and there are many divers seen collecting oysters that are immediately brought to local restaurants.

About Vista Bahia Suites

Life at the Vista Bahia Suites is quite unique because it is an older and small complex, and occupied mostly by visitors from Canada and the US.  Vista Bahia is an old hotel converted about 15 years ago into a strata and all units are individually owned. We are renting from Leslie and Kosta who are Canadians from Whiterock, BC and are now living full time in Bucerias building a home.  Our condo is about 2km from Bucerias centre and therefore it is very quiet – except for the crashing waves 50 meters from the building.  The beach is great for swimming and some people are fishing from the shore.  There is a pool and outdoor patio to BBQ and have group functions.  The view is awesome and we met some wonderful people, mostly from colder areas of Canada and the US.