REVIEW of Camino Via de la Plata

September 23

REVIEW of Camino Via de la Plata

 In comparison to our first camino in 2010 (the French Way), the camino Via de la Plata was so different. At times more enjoyable because there were fewer peregrinos competing for accommodations, but also with disadvantages. For example there were fewer churches and chapels open during the day and evening on Via de la Plata and therefore less opportunity for spiritual reflection. Also in 2010, the French Way was our first camino and we were in awe with our entire experience, which was more spiritual, and it was the encouragement of other peregrinos that helped us to overcome challenges. On the other hand, this being our 5th camino, Via de la Plata was more of an adventure - trekking where fewer people go. It too was an awesome experience! Planning has already begun for next year.

LIKES

The weather was good for most of the camino

Accommodations were generally good 

Restaurants usually had a daily menu on average 10euros that were always plentiful (food and drinks)

Most people in little towns spoke little to no English, hence forcing to communicate in Spanish 

Met lots of peregrinos from Canada, US, England, Ireland, Spain, Austria, Belgium, Germany, Italy, France, Holland, Russia, S. Korea, Australia, New Zealand

Road walking reduced distances and avoided muddy trails on rainy days

DISLIKES

Really bad rainy days and raining all day

Some hotels had no heating

Sometimes difficult to dry gear

In some stages there were few rest stop locations

Not all towns have cafes open in the morning and sometimes we would go 2-3 hours without a coffee break

Carrying too much water and food that is not used

Road and rail construction required lengthy detours

Road walking was not fun, spending too much time looking for cars rather than enjoying the scenery

Way finding out of some towns was challenging

Schedule not flexible and could not spend more time in interesting towns

WOULD DO DIFFERENTLY 

Bring better rain gear

Bring waterproof trekking pants

Bring long-sleeve shirt

Check all gear and only bring what was used, and try to replace with light weight towels and sheet

Schedule more slack time and additional time at the end

Convert to a single hand device for phoning, gps, photos, blogging, language speech translated and Camino app.

Keep learning Spanish

Alicante

October 16

We left Santiago in the dark and raining and made our way to the train station, hopefully headed for a sunny destination. It feels kind of strange not wearing a backpack and not walking. Like something is missing  from our day. At the station we met David and Lou from Vancouver. They bid farewell to Melanie and are now heading home. Alicante was an excellent choice. Besides the sunny weather, there is a great beach with crystal clear water, two castle ruins on different hilltops and many restaurants.

See Alicante pics

Santiago de Compostela 19km Stage 32

October 15   YAHOO...we did it! Trekking 700km

We finally made it to Santiago and received our Compostela certificate. It was a tough trek today as it rained all day long and our feet we're wrinkled from 5 hours of being immersed in water. The outlook for tomorrow is the same - more rain, so we booked train tickets to Alicante, Spain where the outlook is for sunshine and 28 degrees. An excellent finish to a long trek.

To Ponte Ulla 21km Stage 31

October 14

I don't want to continue talking about the weather, but today was glorious. It was the perfect walking weather and our luck continued throughout the day - we ate walnuts from a tree along the camino, I found a four leaf clover while stopped for a break and I ate calamari for the first time. They looked more like octopus but the waiter assured me they were not pulpo (octopus). Regardless, they were delicious. And Julie was served the most unique mixed salad yet, which included chestnuts and apple slices. The salads appear to be different in every restaurant we've been to.

To Silleda 27km Stage 30

October 13

We left the Albergue about 8:20am just as it was getting light. It is a later departure than our first week when we were starting our treks at 7:45 when the sun was rising. When the sky is clear it's the most beautiful start to the day. But not today! Today was a cloudy misty morning reminding me so much of BC's own west and wet coast. It was an okay morning trekking over hills looking onto the valleys below. We stopped at a bar/Cafe at noon that was toasty warm and enjoyed a great lunch. But about 3pm, as we arrived in Silleda, the heavy wind and rain started. I keep remembering the words of a Spanish peregrino, "this is the province of Galicia", just as we would say to  Vancouver tourists complaining about the rain, "this is British Columbia".

To Castro Dozon 15km Stage 29

October 12

Before leaving town we stopped for coffee at Cafe Sol and Luna, and the owners Enzo and Mary were so friendly. Enzo discovered immediately that I am Italian, as he is, and we continued our conversation in Italian. During this trek a few Spaniards have identified me as Italian. And today at a second cafe, the owner spoke to me in Italian. I must be speaking Spanish with an Italian accent. Who knew?! Today was a short trek (15km) but just right as  light rain started as we began walking. The terrain was similar to  yesterday- going through mountain villages.

See Dozon pics

To San Cristovo de Cea 23km Stage 28

October 11

Today's trek from Ourense to Cea went through some beautiful landscapes and interesting villages. It took an hour to leave the Ourense outskirts and quickly started our ascent through mountain villages. Most interesting seeing two eras of houses - century old homes in ruins and nearby, large country estates with beautiful gardens. Like many little European villages, over the decades people have left their small farms, but others are buying cheap property to build luxury homes. It's a beautiful area and therefore not surprising that new landowners are enjoying the land in different ways rather than trying to farm it. Cea is a much larger village with many stores, and according to a store owner, their economy is not just dependent on locals, but also on outlying villages that are too small to have their own stores.

Besides the weather being cooler, there are many signs of Fall. For one all the different fruits are ripening, as are the acorns and chestnuts, which were falling and nearly missing us. I guess that's why this season is referred to as "fall".

Lastly I want to mention that as we entered the area of Galicia the language has changed to Galician. It's appears to be a mixture of Spanish and Portuguese, and therefore communication is a little more challenging.

See Cea pics

To Orense Stage 27 (bus)

October 9-10

In the morning the sky cleared. What a difference from the previous day when it poured all day and night. We met three peregrinos this morning who we last saw about five days prior. They made yesterday's trek in the rain and they were soaked. We were told that there are many diversions which could add another 6km to today's trek. Also we discovered the albergue in the next town is closed and therefore we would need to trek 40km to Laza for accommodations. Doesn't sound like fun so we took the bus to Orense where we will resume our camino. 

A day off without being on the camino, but we did walk over 10km exploring the Orense river shoreline which has three public and two private hot spring pools, which are a big tourist  attraction. The bridge (Ponte do Milenio) is truly amazing. I first saw this bridge in 2010 when we passed the town by bus. It is a unique design and I discovered today that there are steps that allows you to walk to the top. No thank you. A little too scary.

We were wondering if we would meet other peregrinos, and sure enough we bumped into Meline in our hotel. We met Meline about 10 days ago when she was separated from her friends. They finally reunited and back walking together. I doubt we'll see her again as she is travelling longer distances each day to meet her completion deadline.

See Ourense pics

A Gudina 44km Stage 26 (By taxi)

October 8

We said that we would never cheat and take a taxi or bus, but today we broke our promise to ourselves. The weather has horrible this morning and the outlook for tomorrow the same. This part of the camino is a mountainous region and therefore more rainfall. As we passed through the area by taxi we could see dried streams had turned into raging waterfalls. Hopefully Thursday we can resume our trek. But, if it rains we'll keep our options open - possibly another  taxi or bus ride.

Requejo de Sanabria 26km Stage 25

October 7 (Tuesday)

We continue to trek through the mountain region through forests of pine trees and ancient castles. During this Camino we have travelled through prime hunting areas, and besides a few deer and jack rabbits we had not seen the wild boar until today. Today we saw three, but unfortunately they were dead. They must have been walking  together on the road and most likely were hit by a car. So sad.

Asturianos 25km Stage 24

October 6 

A cold morning that turned to light rain by late afternoon. We are now in the mountain region and therefore cooler evenings. What was I thinking when packing my clothes! I should have included a long-sleeve shirt and trekking pants. 

To Rionegro del Puente 29km Stage 23

October 5 (Sunday)

It's getting to feel a little like the Groundhog Day movie - up at 6:30, brush, shave and breakfast at 7:30, and off to our next destination. This is repeated each day. We have perfected packing our backpacks and we have turned into walking machines. Thankfully we are greeted each day with new scenery and meeting new peregrinos. We can see and feel Fall approaching, crops are being harvested and leaves are changing colour, giving the landscape a beautiful vista. This area of the Camino is interesting, seeing old houses once standing, where built of mud, clay, rocks and straw. Almost all these types of houses are no longer standing but it's amazing that they were inhabited for so many years. Another interest is the many root cellars built into the hillside. They vary in size and it is hard to tell if they are still being used today. I doubt it, as many of these cellars have tall grasses growing at they're doors. Also, in this era, there is little need for cellars as most towns have a super market.

See Rionegro pics

Santa Croya de Tera 22km Stage 22

October 4 

The trek went through rolling hills of oak trees and vineyards. We met many farmers today harvesting their grapes and there were many reminders on the path about the harvest - pesky fruit flies that stuck to us for about 5km. A beautiful landscape, except for the flies. Arrived at our destination at about 1:30, but all of the peregrinos we met yesterday went on to the next towns. We stayed in albergue Casa Anita, with one other guest.

To Tabara 25km Stage 21

October 3

After three days of mindless trekking we were rewarded today by the most beautiful view of Rio Esla with an ancient stone bridge crossing. Unfortunately the terrain was precarious with rock cliffs to the waters edge.  We chose to follow the road which was faster than the camino trail. I'm sure this confused a few peregrinos, who left before us, but who saw us at the restaurant enjoying lunch well before they arrived.

See Tamara pics

Montamarta and Granja de Moreruela Stages 19 and 20

October 1

Montamarta 17km Stage 19

The trek continued to take us through rolling hills of wheat fields. This portion of the Camino tests your mental state. We have dealt with and overcome our physical challenges, and it is our mental state that is being challenged as we march through endless fields of wheat. There many hours to reflect on past experiences and future hopes and dreams. It is also a time to think and wonder about our grand children and hope that they are enjoying there time at school.

October 2

Granja de Moreruela 20km Stage 20

Another day of testing our mental state. Unfortunately this stage of the trek went through the construction of a new high speed rail and super highway connecting the north-west region of Spain to Madrid. We were warned of the many re-directs and therefore decided to walk the road. Not the most pleasant experience, but we were able to reduce our waking time by an hour. Not much to do in in Granja, but relax. Lunch at about 1:30, which was followed by a siesta.

To Zamora 32 km Stage 18

September 30

A long day and the fog not lifting until 12:30pm. At 11am we arrived in the village of Villanueva (13km) and after a few tapas we decided to move onto Zamora, another 19km. The afternoon terrain was flat going through fields of wheat and sunflowers, and a few vineyards. A few kilometres before Zamora we met William, a Spanish peregrino who was on a 5-day trek. Since work was slow he was able to take the time off. We have met a few other Spanish peregrinos doing short treks along Via de la Plata.

We were so glad to eventually reach today's destination and enjoyed an ice cream as we entered the town. Zamora is a nice little town with many historical sites and trendy restaurants. We wished we could spend another day but not possible due time constraints.

See Zamara pics

To El Cubo del Vino (bucket full of grapes) 19km Stage 17

September 29

Another uneventful trekking day and there was a thick fog up to 10:40am that obscured all views. The trek today followed the highway. Not exciting but we did receive encouraging honks from passing drivers. What made the day were our gracious hosts - Filiberto and Loli. We were treated with appies and wine when we arrived and Loli cooked the best meal ever. Starting with appies and wine, followed by seafood soup cooked with white wine, then pork chunks cooked with red wine and fresh salad with the most delicious tomatoes. The dinner ended with sweet melon, grapa and coffee liqueur. I was stuffed like a thanksgiving turkey and I've never seen Julie eat as much meat as she did.

See El Cubo pics

To Calzada de Valdunciel 15km Stage 16

September 28

This was a relatively short trek and rather uneventful going through cattle farms. Rather a smelly day. When we arrived in town we discovered that the Albergue was closed and luckily there was a hotel (El Pozo=the well) at the outskirts of town, which quickly filled up with peregrinos. Julie was liking this hotel as there were 3 friendly young cats in the outdoor bar area.

See Calzada pics