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Monday, October 21, 2013
Lisbon
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Albufeira and Sagres
Sagres was a day-trip from Lagos. Sages sits on a rugged coast with a working harbour (fish boats). There's a large fortress at the point, which was interesting to visit. This included a walk along the cliffs and there were two spots about 100m from the edge that we we could observe the grottos below. It was awesome to see how erosion from waves, wind and rain, over thousands of years, created underwater caves. There were more young people in town, with the beach being a big attraction for the surfers.
Albufeira is a big attraction for tourists and is very lively at night with live music at a few nearby restaurants and bars. And there are so many restaurants/bars we wondered how they make a profit. We asked one restaurant worker and he indicated that they are so busy in July and August, and it is a struggle attracting customers at other times of the year. There are many breakfast and lunch specials, and Happy Hour has made its way to Europe. It's great for visitors at this time of year! The beaches are less crowded and the ocean water is still swimmable. The old town of Albufeira is surrounded by many resort developments and many of these people come to the old town to enjoy the beaches and many of the restaurants/bars. Just to note the strong British presence, with many restaurants serving traditional British dishes, and lots of beer and Guinness being consumed.
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Sunday, October 13, 2013
Lagos
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Thursday, October 10, 2013
Faro
Faro is a let-down after Tavira. It's old town is not very big and therefore not much to see. The big "thing" to see the "bone chapel" that has the bones of over 1200 monks covering the walls. This was too creepy for us and therefore skipped the exhibit. There are many restaurants and bars outside the old town to enjoy a meal and/or drink, but not much else to do, except go to the beach, which we did on our second day. Faro sits on a delta, and, like Tavira, was known for its salt ponds, which are no longer active. There are many marsh lands separating Faro from the Atlantic Ocean, and one island is connected to the mainland by a bridge. It would have been easy to catch #16 bus from our hotel, but Julie was looking forward to a 7km trek. This was not trivial since not too many visitors walk to the island from Faro, which required research on Google Maps to locate the trails. We made the trek going through back roads that also cut through the Faro airport. We made it to the island without getting lost. The sun was bright but the ocean breeze felt like we were under shade. It was a great day, with lunch on the beach followed by a siesta!
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Tavira
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Friday, October 4, 2013
Sevilla
We left Santiago at 4:25pm for a14+Hour bus ride to Seville. This was not a fun evening, trying to sleep on a bus that made frequent rest stops.
What an interesting town Seville is,with a magnificent cathedral, museums, old town and old bridges. We spent an enjoyable day touring the town, and stopped for an afternoon snack on prawns and chilled wine and beer. However the town is easy to get lost in, even with a map. None of the streets in the old town go straight. Even though we were close to our hotel it took 30 minutes to find it. By the third day we figured out the street patterns.
There is a Camino de Plata that starts in Sevilla and goes 1000km to Santiago and we decided to walk the first portion. The trek followed the river and after two hours we ended up in the small town of Santiponce that contains the ancient Roman city of Italica. We toured the museum filled with religious relics. Unfortunately, like most other museums, pictures are not allowed.
On the third day we visited the Spanish Palace, which was truly spectacular. It is the most beautiful building ever seen! The palace is huge and on the front-side there is a moat and boats are available for tours. On the last day we toured the city from a different direction and saw their ancient wall going through a residential area. By noon we were at the university, which is also centuries old. Across the street from the main entrance was a bar/cafe filled with students enjoying their beer and tapas. We joined in.
Back to Santiago
"The rain in Spain falls mainly on the plains" is not so! When it rains in Spain it pretty much rains every where. It was no longer fun and therefore we terminated our trek to Finisterre. This is now the second time we've ended a trek in Santiago because of poor weather conditions. We then trekked 12km back to Negreira and took the bus back to Santiago where we met Michael(from Germany) whose goal was also to go to Finisterra. He was two days in front of us and therefore avoided some of the bad rainy days. We stayed overnight in Santiago and bought tickets to southern Spain in search of sun.
Santiago to Negreira and Vilacerio
We left Santiago with a forecast of rain for the next four days, but we were not discouraged. It was our goal to complete stage two of Camino de Santiago - 96km to Finisterre (the end of the earth), rain or shine. The trek went through forests and mountain villages with beautiful rivers. It was a challenge with two hills to climb up and down. And the descent can be more physically challenging.
Negreira to Vilacerio (12km)
What a horrible morning! We began with so much optimism and within an hour of our trek the sky opened up with a downpour. The trails turned to rivers and small lakes, and the umbrella provided little protection. I felt and looked like Jean Kelly in the movie "Dancing in the Rain". We were soaked through, but we were pleasantly surprised to find a bar and albergue at the 12km point of the trek -10km short of our planned trek. At least we can dry out today and make up the distance tomorrow. I realize now why prayer on the camino is common. As pilgrims we pray for a bar or cafe when we are thirsty or hungry, and accommodations when we are exhausted. Today our prayers were answered.
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Friday, September 27, 2013
Padron to Santiago de Compostela (24.9km)
First full day of rain, which made for a challenging trek and many pilgrims today were making extra cafe/restaurant stops. Finally arrived at Santiago and made our way to the cathedral and met other pilgrims we've been meeting along the way - five nurses from Toronto and four Norwegian ladies who were excited about completing their camino, and mother and son from Germany who were reunited after a few hours when the mother got lost along the trail. It was so nice to achieve our own personal goal, and we were delighted to see so many happy pilgrims obtain their certificate of achievement. Hugs and kisses ended our final day in Santiago.Wednesday, September 25, 2013
Caldas de Reis to Padron (18.1km)
We have met many pilgrims along the camino and just noting that not all pilgrims have the same goals or physical abilities. Many are doing the distance by following a rigorous agenda - 20-30km per day with full gear, and some novice pilgrims, who may be inexperienced hikers, following a less rigorous trek - less gear and/or shorter daily distances. The minimum walking distance to earn a credential is 100km, therefore both pilgrim types will earn the same credential. I have to mention this in hope of encouraging blog readers to considering doing a camino.
Today's trek was through forest and vineyards, and a great stop for our morning coffee! The most excellent coffee in large cups. We arrived in Padron by early afternoon and had a great lunch. In such large portions, I don't think loosing weight is possible. Padron is a quaint little town with churches and convent, and a beautiful tree-line park. There are a few plazas where parents bring there kids to play. I had a chance to fake out a kid with his soccer ball. He was probably 8 or 9 years old and already with skills of Ronaldo. How they love their soccer in Spain.
Today's trek was through forest and vineyards, and a great stop for our morning coffee! The most excellent coffee in large cups. We arrived in Padron by early afternoon and had a great lunch. In such large portions, I don't think loosing weight is possible. Padron is a quaint little town with churches and convent, and a beautiful tree-line park. There are a few plazas where parents bring there kids to play. I had a chance to fake out a kid with his soccer ball. He was probably 8 or 9 years old and already with skills of Ronaldo. How they love their soccer in Spain.
Sunday, September 22, 2013
Redondelato Pontevedra (18.2km)
Saturday, it seems like more weekend hikers hit the trails. It would be okay, but so do biking clubs/groups. The trek today was very picturesque but we had to be alert and avoid collisions with bikers, who amazingly were travelling at very high speeds. The trek covered mainly forest trails over two hills, hence we were under shade the majority of the day. We made a morning stop at a cafe as did a group of bikers, and I had an unfortunate accident with everyone watching. We sat on the patio and one of the chair legs of the chair I sat on was on top of a mat, and underneath was a hole. Well the chair tilted and there I was laying on my side in total shock not knowing what happened. Some people thought I broke the chair.
The temperature reached 30c, which is not bad under shade, but exhausting in the bright afternoon sun. Julie was exhausted as we made our way through town to find our hotel, which turned out to a great location -central, close to historic sights and many cafes and restaurants. A great place to stop and spend an extra day! We visited museums, churches, ate pastries and sipped wine. What a great day!
Friday, September 20, 2013
Valenca to Redondela
Valenca to Porrino (18km)
We crossed Rio Mino and entered Spain and with a time-zone change -advancing one hour. The start of today's trek was a little more difficult as the trail markings were fewer and farther apart. But we were able to get help from the locals. It was another enjoyable trek through forests. As we got closer to Porrino we stopped at the most interesting bar. A horse stable, still housing two horses, and various related objects used for the bar. The food and wine was also made locally.
Porrino to Redondela (16km)
Today's trek combined forest trails and country roads, under shade half of the time. This is our second day in Spain and I'm having difficulty switching from the Portuguese language general greetings. I'm sure we'll have the same challenges when we return to Portugal in a few weeks. Our plan today was to go to Arcade but after a big lunch we decided to stay in Redondela. There are only auberges in Redondela and no hotels, but Julie is very resourceful and found an apartment to rent for the evening.
Lima to Valenca
Lima to Kubiaes (18.1km)
We made our way across the old bridge and began our ascent of 400m elevation gain. We met many of the hikers from a few nights ago at various rest stops and cafes along the way. Today's trek took us through mountain villages, along country roads and scrabbling up mountain trails. It was the most difficult stage, so far, of the Portuguese caminho. We booked into our pension at about 2pm, showered and enjoyed lounging in the courtyard, sipping on vinho verde. At 7pm the local restaurant owner came to pick us up. We met many of the other pilgrims who were staying at the Albergue. We had a lovely dinner and treated ourselves with Portuguese flan, which is the best we've ever tasted. And after dinner we were driven back to our pension....what service!
Kubiaes to Valenca(16.3km)
The trek today had a slight elevation gain of 200m as we travelled through many mountain villages. It was an enjoyable trek as the trails took us through forests and the shade from the tall trees protected us from the hot sun. However it was sad to encounter a 2-3km stretch of the forest that was recently damaged by fire. As we arrived in Valenca the first sight was the fortress with its high walls that surrounds the old town. Valenca is the last Portuguese town in the Portuguese Caminho as tomorrow we will cross the Minho river and enter Spain and continue our trek to Santiago. The old town is a typical tourist attraction - a few churches and so many shops selling (surprisingly) children cuddly wear, nice bedding and, of course, souvenirs. Nice place to shop, but not a reason for us to stay another day.
Monday, September 16, 2013
Barcelos to Lugar do Corgos
We left the hotel by 8am to take advantage of the morning coolness. The trek continued to take us through farm villages, with a stop at 10am at a road cafe for coffee and apple strudel. It was a needed break as it was now starting to heat up. By 12 noon we still had 5km to go and running low on water. When we arrived at Casa de Fernanda we were all out of water and feeling very dehydrated, and given the news that the Albergue was "complete". This is a famous Albergue run by Fernanda and her husband. We arrived without prior booking, and even though they were full, they accommodated us by shuffling some of the other guests. And what a great time we had! As more guests arrived, out came more beer and wine, and appies. Fernanda sure knows how to treat her guests well. And the dinner was fantastic with BBQ, salad and potatoes from her garden, with wine also home-made. Dinner was followed by singing around the table while sampling port liqueurs. It was the most awesome experience.
Rates to Barcelos
The night at the Albergue was not pleasant. A big lady snored all night keeping everyone awake. Julie couldn't stand the noise and spent the early morning in another room reading. Up at 6:00am, breakfast and out the door by 7:20am. Seems insane but it is much cooler walking in the morning compared to 31C in the afternoon. It was a pleasant walk going through a more upscale part of the farmland, with many beautiful modern homes. And the town of Barcelos was equally beautiful. Entering Barcelos by crossing the medieval bridge and greeted by an 18th century church. Barcelos is popular with many tourists interested in visiting the churches and beautiful gardens. And there are no shortage of cafes - with 2-3 on every block. With the temperature reaching 31C there are lots of sodas and beer going down. Another great day!
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Vila do Condo to Sao Pedro de Rates
It was a much shorter walk today traveling through the rural areas. Mostly on country roads lined with corn fields and a few vineyards. And the aroma of farm life was present the entire way. We were delighted when we arrived in the tiny hamlet of Rates with one Albergue, one mini market, one cafe and one restaurant. Just enough of everything to meet our needs. It was a hot day with very little wind compared to the day before along the coast, but the thirst was quenched quickly by a cold beer. Albergues are so much fun as we are able to meet pilgrims - today from Germany, Belgium, Denmark, Austria and Italy. The food tonight at San Antonio Bar and Grill was excellent - salmon and pork dinners with chilled vinho verde for 13E.
Oporto to Vila do Conde
We took the metro to Mercado where we began our trek., following the coastline which was lined with 10km of boardwalks. This made for easier walking but there was a 1km stretch where we scrambled along the beach, which was very difficult and exhausting. We drank most of our water, which had been heated by the hot sun. It was a very interesting trek, passing by 100's of years of history - beaches where pirates landed to kill and enslave; many shipwrecks on the rocks and a WII German submarine sunk to make a reef. Vila do Conde is a small town on the edge of the river and Atlantic Ocean, with major attractions linked to the Catholic religion - medieval convent and churches. Oprto, Portugal
As remembered from 25 years ago, Oporto is very hilly and the attractions are mainly on the river banks, with the wineries being the main reason to come to Oporto as are the restaurants that come alive at night. Oporto is showing its age, with many projects in progress to restore aging infrastructure. Nice place to spend a few days.
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Wednesday, August 14, 2013
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