REVIEW of Camino Via de la Plata

September 23

REVIEW of Camino Via de la Plata

 In comparison to our first camino in 2010 (the French Way), the camino Via de la Plata was so different. At times more enjoyable because there were fewer peregrinos competing for accommodations, but also with disadvantages. For example there were fewer churches and chapels open during the day and evening on Via de la Plata and therefore less opportunity for spiritual reflection. Also in 2010, the French Way was our first camino and we were in awe with our entire experience, which was more spiritual, and it was the encouragement of other peregrinos that helped us to overcome challenges. On the other hand, this being our 5th camino, Via de la Plata was more of an adventure - trekking where fewer people go. It too was an awesome experience! Planning has already begun for next year.

LIKES

The weather was good for most of the camino

Accommodations were generally good 

Restaurants usually had a daily menu on average 10euros that were always plentiful (food and drinks)

Most people in little towns spoke little to no English, hence forcing to communicate in Spanish 

Met lots of peregrinos from Canada, US, England, Ireland, Spain, Austria, Belgium, Germany, Italy, France, Holland, Russia, S. Korea, Australia, New Zealand

Road walking reduced distances and avoided muddy trails on rainy days

DISLIKES

Really bad rainy days and raining all day

Some hotels had no heating

Sometimes difficult to dry gear

In some stages there were few rest stop locations

Not all towns have cafes open in the morning and sometimes we would go 2-3 hours without a coffee break

Carrying too much water and food that is not used

Road and rail construction required lengthy detours

Road walking was not fun, spending too much time looking for cars rather than enjoying the scenery

Way finding out of some towns was challenging

Schedule not flexible and could not spend more time in interesting towns

WOULD DO DIFFERENTLY 

Bring better rain gear

Bring waterproof trekking pants

Bring long-sleeve shirt

Check all gear and only bring what was used, and try to replace with light weight towels and sheet

Schedule more slack time and additional time at the end

Convert to a single hand device for phoning, gps, photos, blogging, language speech translated and Camino app.

Keep learning Spanish

Alicante

October 16

We left Santiago in the dark and raining and made our way to the train station, hopefully headed for a sunny destination. It feels kind of strange not wearing a backpack and not walking. Like something is missing  from our day. At the station we met David and Lou from Vancouver. They bid farewell to Melanie and are now heading home. Alicante was an excellent choice. Besides the sunny weather, there is a great beach with crystal clear water, two castle ruins on different hilltops and many restaurants.

See Alicante pics

Santiago de Compostela 19km Stage 32

October 15   YAHOO...we did it! Trekking 700km

We finally made it to Santiago and received our Compostela certificate. It was a tough trek today as it rained all day long and our feet we're wrinkled from 5 hours of being immersed in water. The outlook for tomorrow is the same - more rain, so we booked train tickets to Alicante, Spain where the outlook is for sunshine and 28 degrees. An excellent finish to a long trek.

To Ponte Ulla 21km Stage 31

October 14

I don't want to continue talking about the weather, but today was glorious. It was the perfect walking weather and our luck continued throughout the day - we ate walnuts from a tree along the camino, I found a four leaf clover while stopped for a break and I ate calamari for the first time. They looked more like octopus but the waiter assured me they were not pulpo (octopus). Regardless, they were delicious. And Julie was served the most unique mixed salad yet, which included chestnuts and apple slices. The salads appear to be different in every restaurant we've been to.

To Silleda 27km Stage 30

October 13

We left the Albergue about 8:20am just as it was getting light. It is a later departure than our first week when we were starting our treks at 7:45 when the sun was rising. When the sky is clear it's the most beautiful start to the day. But not today! Today was a cloudy misty morning reminding me so much of BC's own west and wet coast. It was an okay morning trekking over hills looking onto the valleys below. We stopped at a bar/Cafe at noon that was toasty warm and enjoyed a great lunch. But about 3pm, as we arrived in Silleda, the heavy wind and rain started. I keep remembering the words of a Spanish peregrino, "this is the province of Galicia", just as we would say to  Vancouver tourists complaining about the rain, "this is British Columbia".

To Castro Dozon 15km Stage 29

October 12

Before leaving town we stopped for coffee at Cafe Sol and Luna, and the owners Enzo and Mary were so friendly. Enzo discovered immediately that I am Italian, as he is, and we continued our conversation in Italian. During this trek a few Spaniards have identified me as Italian. And today at a second cafe, the owner spoke to me in Italian. I must be speaking Spanish with an Italian accent. Who knew?! Today was a short trek (15km) but just right as  light rain started as we began walking. The terrain was similar to  yesterday- going through mountain villages.

See Dozon pics

To San Cristovo de Cea 23km Stage 28

October 11

Today's trek from Ourense to Cea went through some beautiful landscapes and interesting villages. It took an hour to leave the Ourense outskirts and quickly started our ascent through mountain villages. Most interesting seeing two eras of houses - century old homes in ruins and nearby, large country estates with beautiful gardens. Like many little European villages, over the decades people have left their small farms, but others are buying cheap property to build luxury homes. It's a beautiful area and therefore not surprising that new landowners are enjoying the land in different ways rather than trying to farm it. Cea is a much larger village with many stores, and according to a store owner, their economy is not just dependent on locals, but also on outlying villages that are too small to have their own stores.

Besides the weather being cooler, there are many signs of Fall. For one all the different fruits are ripening, as are the acorns and chestnuts, which were falling and nearly missing us. I guess that's why this season is referred to as "fall".

Lastly I want to mention that as we entered the area of Galicia the language has changed to Galician. It's appears to be a mixture of Spanish and Portuguese, and therefore communication is a little more challenging.

See Cea pics

To Orense Stage 27 (bus)

October 9-10

In the morning the sky cleared. What a difference from the previous day when it poured all day and night. We met three peregrinos this morning who we last saw about five days prior. They made yesterday's trek in the rain and they were soaked. We were told that there are many diversions which could add another 6km to today's trek. Also we discovered the albergue in the next town is closed and therefore we would need to trek 40km to Laza for accommodations. Doesn't sound like fun so we took the bus to Orense where we will resume our camino. 

A day off without being on the camino, but we did walk over 10km exploring the Orense river shoreline which has three public and two private hot spring pools, which are a big tourist  attraction. The bridge (Ponte do Milenio) is truly amazing. I first saw this bridge in 2010 when we passed the town by bus. It is a unique design and I discovered today that there are steps that allows you to walk to the top. No thank you. A little too scary.

We were wondering if we would meet other peregrinos, and sure enough we bumped into Meline in our hotel. We met Meline about 10 days ago when she was separated from her friends. They finally reunited and back walking together. I doubt we'll see her again as she is travelling longer distances each day to meet her completion deadline.

See Ourense pics

A Gudina 44km Stage 26 (By taxi)

October 8

We said that we would never cheat and take a taxi or bus, but today we broke our promise to ourselves. The weather has horrible this morning and the outlook for tomorrow the same. This part of the camino is a mountainous region and therefore more rainfall. As we passed through the area by taxi we could see dried streams had turned into raging waterfalls. Hopefully Thursday we can resume our trek. But, if it rains we'll keep our options open - possibly another  taxi or bus ride.

Requejo de Sanabria 26km Stage 25

October 7 (Tuesday)

We continue to trek through the mountain region through forests of pine trees and ancient castles. During this Camino we have travelled through prime hunting areas, and besides a few deer and jack rabbits we had not seen the wild boar until today. Today we saw three, but unfortunately they were dead. They must have been walking  together on the road and most likely were hit by a car. So sad.

Asturianos 25km Stage 24

October 6 

A cold morning that turned to light rain by late afternoon. We are now in the mountain region and therefore cooler evenings. What was I thinking when packing my clothes! I should have included a long-sleeve shirt and trekking pants. 

To Rionegro del Puente 29km Stage 23

October 5 (Sunday)

It's getting to feel a little like the Groundhog Day movie - up at 6:30, brush, shave and breakfast at 7:30, and off to our next destination. This is repeated each day. We have perfected packing our backpacks and we have turned into walking machines. Thankfully we are greeted each day with new scenery and meeting new peregrinos. We can see and feel Fall approaching, crops are being harvested and leaves are changing colour, giving the landscape a beautiful vista. This area of the Camino is interesting, seeing old houses once standing, where built of mud, clay, rocks and straw. Almost all these types of houses are no longer standing but it's amazing that they were inhabited for so many years. Another interest is the many root cellars built into the hillside. They vary in size and it is hard to tell if they are still being used today. I doubt it, as many of these cellars have tall grasses growing at they're doors. Also, in this era, there is little need for cellars as most towns have a super market.

See Rionegro pics

Santa Croya de Tera 22km Stage 22

October 4 

The trek went through rolling hills of oak trees and vineyards. We met many farmers today harvesting their grapes and there were many reminders on the path about the harvest - pesky fruit flies that stuck to us for about 5km. A beautiful landscape, except for the flies. Arrived at our destination at about 1:30, but all of the peregrinos we met yesterday went on to the next towns. We stayed in albergue Casa Anita, with one other guest.

To Tabara 25km Stage 21

October 3

After three days of mindless trekking we were rewarded today by the most beautiful view of Rio Esla with an ancient stone bridge crossing. Unfortunately the terrain was precarious with rock cliffs to the waters edge.  We chose to follow the road which was faster than the camino trail. I'm sure this confused a few peregrinos, who left before us, but who saw us at the restaurant enjoying lunch well before they arrived.

See Tamara pics

Montamarta and Granja de Moreruela Stages 19 and 20

October 1

Montamarta 17km Stage 19

The trek continued to take us through rolling hills of wheat fields. This portion of the Camino tests your mental state. We have dealt with and overcome our physical challenges, and it is our mental state that is being challenged as we march through endless fields of wheat. There many hours to reflect on past experiences and future hopes and dreams. It is also a time to think and wonder about our grand children and hope that they are enjoying there time at school.

October 2

Granja de Moreruela 20km Stage 20

Another day of testing our mental state. Unfortunately this stage of the trek went through the construction of a new high speed rail and super highway connecting the north-west region of Spain to Madrid. We were warned of the many re-directs and therefore decided to walk the road. Not the most pleasant experience, but we were able to reduce our waking time by an hour. Not much to do in in Granja, but relax. Lunch at about 1:30, which was followed by a siesta.

To Zamora 32 km Stage 18

September 30

A long day and the fog not lifting until 12:30pm. At 11am we arrived in the village of Villanueva (13km) and after a few tapas we decided to move onto Zamora, another 19km. The afternoon terrain was flat going through fields of wheat and sunflowers, and a few vineyards. A few kilometres before Zamora we met William, a Spanish peregrino who was on a 5-day trek. Since work was slow he was able to take the time off. We have met a few other Spanish peregrinos doing short treks along Via de la Plata.

We were so glad to eventually reach today's destination and enjoyed an ice cream as we entered the town. Zamora is a nice little town with many historical sites and trendy restaurants. We wished we could spend another day but not possible due time constraints.

See Zamara pics

To El Cubo del Vino (bucket full of grapes) 19km Stage 17

September 29

Another uneventful trekking day and there was a thick fog up to 10:40am that obscured all views. The trek today followed the highway. Not exciting but we did receive encouraging honks from passing drivers. What made the day were our gracious hosts - Filiberto and Loli. We were treated with appies and wine when we arrived and Loli cooked the best meal ever. Starting with appies and wine, followed by seafood soup cooked with white wine, then pork chunks cooked with red wine and fresh salad with the most delicious tomatoes. The dinner ended with sweet melon, grapa and coffee liqueur. I was stuffed like a thanksgiving turkey and I've never seen Julie eat as much meat as she did.

See El Cubo pics

To Calzada de Valdunciel 15km Stage 16

September 28

This was a relatively short trek and rather uneventful going through cattle farms. Rather a smelly day. When we arrived in town we discovered that the Albergue was closed and luckily there was a hotel (El Pozo=the well) at the outskirts of town, which quickly filled up with peregrinos. Julie was liking this hotel as there were 3 friendly young cats in the outdoor bar area.

See Calzada pics

To Salamanca 16km Stage 15

September 26-27

A beautiful walk from Morille going over rolling hills. It was cool with a beautiful mist over the water as the sun came over the mountain. The sun making a red glow in the sky. After 4.5 hours we entered the medieval city of Salamanca and trekked our way passed the magnificent cathedral and onto Plaza Mayor to find our hotel. It's such a magnificent city and worth staying an extra day to enjoy.

Salamanca is a great city to explore - lots of monuments to see and many tasty cafes and restaurants to try their local foods. What is annoying are the crowded streets. On Friday they were full of university students and on Saturday the city was buzzing with tour groups. A big difference to the many small villages we've passed through, where only a few locals were seen walking the streets.

See Salamanca pics

To Morille 32km Stage 14

September 25

Today was our longest trek to-date. We left our Albergue at 8am with the temperature at 8 degrees centigrade -the coldest morning yet. But the sun was shining which made for a great trek, going through many ranches and rolling hills. After 3.5 hours we were thankful to reach our first town and enjoyed coffee and chicken wings. We reached our second village 2 hours later and found a bar with a beautiful courtyard. After 8 hours of trekking we reached our destination and met some peregrinos from the previous night. A long day, but it was so wonderful. I noticed at tonight's dinner that the cuisine has changed to more of the local recipes. I had chicken done in a beer sauce. So good!

See Morille pics

To Fuenterroble de Salvatierra 19km Stage 13

September 24

This was the best walking day, going through beautiful countrysides and still seeing old Roman markers along the path. It was very enjoyable today walking with Linda and Michael sharing stories of our personal and work lives. This trek was made more enjoyable with stops at two small village bars for coffee and snacks. The sun was shining and the air was cool, which made for a fabulous walk. We arrived at our Albergue in Fuenterroble, which is eclectic. It is a parish Albergue run by paid and volunteer staff with hippy-like hosts. It was so much fun participating in a communal dinner with each peregrino bringing something to share. We met many new peregrinos today and sharing stories of our travels. It is more fun when the Albergue has more peregrinos.

See Fuenterroble de Salvatierre pics

To Calzada de Bejar 20km Stage 12

September 23

We left our Albergue with Linda, and Michael catching up to us a few hours later. The trek had a gradual elevation gain this morning going through the picturesque town of Banos de Montemayor, hosting the Roman  baths. Unfortunately we only had time for a coffee break. And how friendly the locals where towards us, some older men giving advise on which trails to follow. We decided to follow the guide book. Hard to believe we were walking on paths built by the Romans over 2000 years ago. The large stones are uneven now and many of the markers on the sides of the path are still standing today, but thousands of people walk this ancient path each year. It was another fantastic day that ended with a group dinner at the Albergue. It was also Linda's 67th birthday and our host and husband celebrating their 19th anniversary.

See Calzada de Bejar pics

To Aldeanueva del Camino 24km Stage 11

September 22

The first 6km today went through more farmlands-mainly cattle ranches until we reached the Arco de Caparra, the ancient Roman ruins. It was a major city during its time of Emperor Augustus, but now it's a archeological dig sight and a restored archway that is spectacular. The site attracts many visitors, including local hiking clubs that make Caparra their turn around point. The remaining 13km went through open fields and and a few water hazards. It had rained the day prior and therefore the creeks were high. Julie gets anxious when there is a chance of falling in. We arrived in Aldeanueva and met up again with Linda and Michael who we met a few days prior.

See Aldeanueva del Camino pics

To Oliva de Camino 19km Stage 10

September 21

Leaving Carcaboso was a challenge as the streets and sidewalks were littered with empty cups and bottle. And there were many young people still partying on and some making there way home looking very tired. After about ten minutes searching for the way markings we finally made our way out of town and it was long, but for the first 13km a very pleasant trek. The terrain was rocky with huge boulders scattered amongst the fields, and in the fields were cattle or orchards of acorn trees and cork trees. We saw trees in the distance with a copper coloured trunk and as we got closer we could see that the lower bark was removed. The bark is very thick and ideal for making bottle corks. Made our way into Oliva and doesn't appear that the peregrinos we met yesterday are coming to this town. Not surprising. It's Sunday and all the stores are closed and only one bar that serves food. This is good for as we have the entire Albergue to ourselves.

See Oliva de Plasencia pics

To Carcaboso 11km Stage 9

September 20

Today's trek was going to be either 11km or 29km. We chose option 1, and thank goodness. There was a party going on in Carcaboso. They were celebrating two saints - San Jovita and San Faustino. And what a fiesta! There were about six locations set up around the village with music, and serving tapas, beer and wine. There were so many people and some of the dancing going onto the street. The music was loud, and could be heard from our Albergue. I think it ended after 5am.

See carcaboso pics

To Galisteo 20km Stage 8

September 19

We woke up to a heavy down-pour and many of the early starters waited for the rain to subside. Seeing no end to the rain, all the peregrinos left except for us. Most we'll not see again as they are travelling long distances today. We left at day-break and the rain had eased a little, but it was not an easy trek, travelling through mushy trails. It was a beautiful countryside but we could not appreciate its beauty as our objective was to stay dry. By late morning the rain stopped and we enjoyed the remaining trek into Galisteo. And what an amazing little village! The old town perched on a hill surrounded by medieval walls. Unfortunate the municipal Albergue was closed, and thankfully Hotel Medina was on the outskirts of town. Our own private room and with a bathtub. The small pleasures Julie always looks forward to.

See Galisteo pics

To Grimaldo 17km Stage 7

September 18

An uneventful trek and not much to see as the camino followed the service road to our destination. We were one of first to arrive to the Albergue and due to the weather, more peregrinos stopped. The Albergue accommodates 12 and I think there were 10 beds taken. Because we arrived ahead of most peregrinos we were able use the washing machine and hang up our laundry, but minutes later the rain came down again. There's nothing worse than carrying heavy wet clothes and therefore everyone was delighted when sun came out for the rest of the day. The bar is next door and they accommodated us for a 7pm dinner -the traditional peregrino special - first and second course plus dessert and wine all for 9 euros. Made new friends this evening mostly from Germany.

See Grimaldo pics

To Embalse de Alcantara 21km Stage 6

September 17

Today's trek took us through a barren farmland of very dry rocky terrain. It is an area with many sheep farms and there was evidence along the way with many droppings on the path. The rock formations were huge and the wind and weather erosion has created some strange formations. This was almost a good day for trekking. In the morning it was overcast and very comfortable walking. However in the last hour of the trek there was a down-pour of rain. We got soaked. After an hour of arriving to our Albergue the sun came out drying up all the rain. (Sounds like the itsy bitsy spider nursery rhyme) But what a beautiful location! The Albergue sits on the hillside with a spectacular view of the lake.

See Embalse de Alcantara pics

To Casar de Caceres 11km Stage 5

September 16

We decided not to trek 32km today and break the next stage in two parts. Hence today was relatively short and Casar de Caceres, we discovered is a delightful little town, very narrow and stretching for a few km. The first, and more modern Albergue was full (comleto in Spanish). So we checked into the municipal Albergue, but discovered 30 minutes later we were across the street from the town bell, which went off twice every hour. The first chime scared me to death, it was so loud. Then wondered if we would have to endure this all night and morning, but its chime stopped after 9pm and resumed at 7am.  Thank goodness! We finally met an English speaking peregrino - Melane from Australia. She started the camino with two friends but quickly became separated because of medical issues. Each is now completing the camino on their own schedule. I'm sure this happens often as we met another walker who, for whatever reason also separated from friends. And its possible on the camino to hook up later in other town.

See Casar de Caceres pics

To Caceres 22km Stage 4

September 15

We walked in a relatively easy terrain, up until we reached Caceres where it's old town is perched upon a hill. We were exhausted when we reached the top but we were greeted by the most beautiful medieval town, with its huge plaza below with many trendy bars and restaurants, and surrounded by the most beautiful churches and museums. The Plaza Mayor was busy with many tourists enjoying tapas and sangria. "How sweet it is!" (Jackie Gleason) We found our accommodations and enjoyed dinner in the Albergue courtyard.

See Caceres pics

To Aldea de Cano 15km Stage 3

September 14

Today was a relatively short walk hence we slept in until 6:30 and enjoyed coffee and churos (the donut equivalent but long instead of round) at the local cafe. Many of our peregrino friends left much earlier and went further than us today, but we'll probably meet up with them in a few days in Caceres.

Today was even more pleasant because of the cool breeze and frequent rest stops along the way. However being Sunday there were no stores open, but thankfully the bars and cafes were open. They do a booming business on Sunday.

See Aldea de Cano pics

To Alcuscar 19km Stage 2

September 13

We left our accommodations at 7am, the last of the peregrinos to leave. It was still dark and therefore went to the bar for coffee and breakfast. Hard to believe many people start walking so early in the dark for 1-2 hours to reduce sun exposure. Yes it's cooler but that is way too early for us and easier to miss waymarkers inthe dark.

The trek today was through the hills and it was interesting how, as the terrain changed so did the vegetation. The first half of the day was through orchids of acorn trees and the last part through orchids of fig trees, olive trees and vineyards. Of course the latter vegetation enjoying the hot climate we just entered.

The highlight of the day was our stay at Acogida Convento Esclavos de Maria y de Los Pobres Albergue. This old convent, besides offering accommodations, houses the mentally and physically ill. It was a humbling experience at the evening mass to have some of the patients and hospital staff also participating in the mass. This was followed by a special blessing by the priest to the peregrinos. Afterwards the peregrinos had a communal dinner of soup, salad, pork steaks and fruit. What a feast!

See Aluescar pics

To Aljucen 15 km Stage 1

September 12

It was a beautiful walk leaving Merida as we passed the aqueducts just as the sun was rising. It was an incredible sight! We eventually made our way to the reservoir with the dam built during the Roman era, and still functions today but as a beach resort rather than a water supply.

We made our way over the many hills and valleys passing orchids of acorn trees. It was a hot day and the first rest stop was 10km into our trek, but there were no bars. Eventually reaching our destination we enjoyed our cool shower and cold beer and wine from the local bar. There's nothing that beats a cold drink in the shade!

See Aljcen pics

Merida

September 10

The Roman ruins dominate the Merida's landscape with a long foot bridge spanning Rio Guadiana, the very impressive Teatro Romano, the Temple de Diana, aqueduct, dam and many other archeology sites. It is a very beautiful city with many cafes, restaurants and trendy shops, but the effects of the economic downturn is very obvious - restaurants competing for customers by offering many specials, and there are shops closed down and many for sale and rental signs. Too bad, as Merida has so much to offer!

See Merida pics

Madrid, Spain

September 8

Arrived in Madrid in the late afternoon feeling very tired after 12hours of travel with a 3.5 hour lay-over in London. The train and metro connections into central Madrid was relatively easy. The trains were crowded hence there many opportunities for would-be thieves. There are many warnings about pickpockets and sure enough one (ladrón) tried, but badly failed his attempt on Julie. She gave him a fierce tongue-lashing. It was in English, but even if he didn't understand the words, I'm sure he got the message clearly. However, this incident did not ruin our day. It was just part of our adventure.

I'm sure the would-be thief was a gypsy but there are many gypsies in Madrid that earn a more honest living. One morning there was a large group of gypsies in Puerta del Sol. I'm sure they were there to get their job assignments for the day, just as we would in a departmental meeting back home. They all then head off to their jobs. The younger girls with their beauty dance and charm the passer-byes for money. Older ladies, who have lost their beauty would beg on the street and on the church steps. The gypsies are not well respected, but those with talent will have a better lifestyle. Some telling fortunes with tables and crystal balls in the Park Retiro, or playing music in the park or busy plazas, and many with excellent musical skills.

See Madrid pics

Camino 2014: Via de la Plata

Hard to believe that we will soon be starting our fifth trek since retiring in 2010.  I'm exited about this trek and can't wait to get started. Having done four other caminos we are less anxious about the unknown, and I've been studying Spanish for the past year so communicating with the locals will be easier. Again Julie will be celebrating her birthday in Spain, which is always special.

So, let's get started already!!