Valenca to Redondela

Valenca to Porrino (18km)

We crossed Rio Mino and entered Spain and with a time-zone change -advancing one hour. The start of today's trek was a little more difficult as the trail markings were fewer and farther apart. But we were able to get help from the locals. It was another enjoyable trek through forests. As we got closer to Porrino we stopped at the most interesting bar. A horse stable, still housing two horses, and various related objects used for the bar. The food and wine was also made locally. 

Porrino to Redondela (16km)

Today's trek combined forest trails and country roads, under shade half of the time. This is our second day in Spain and I'm having difficulty switching from the Portuguese language general greetings. I'm sure we'll have the same challenges when we return to Portugal in a few weeks. Our plan today was to go to Arcade but after a big lunch we decided to stay in Redondela. There are only auberges in Redondela and no hotels, but Julie is very resourceful and found an apartment to rent for the evening.

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Lima to Valenca

Lima to Kubiaes (18.1km)

We made our way across the old bridge and began our ascent of 400m elevation gain. We met many of the hikers from a few nights ago at various rest stops and cafes along the way. Today's trek took us through mountain villages, along country roads and scrabbling up mountain trails. It was the most difficult stage, so far, of the Portuguese caminho.  We booked into our pension at about 2pm, showered and enjoyed lounging in the courtyard, sipping on vinho verde. At 7pm the local restaurant owner came to pick us up. We met many of the other pilgrims who were staying at the Albergue. We had a lovely dinner and treated ourselves with Portuguese flan, which is the best we've ever tasted. And after dinner we were driven back to our pension....what service!

Kubiaes to Valenca(16.3km)

The trek today had a slight elevation gain of 200m as we travelled through many mountain villages. It was an enjoyable trek as the trails took us through forests and the shade from the tall trees protected us from the hot sun.  However it was sad to encounter a 2-3km stretch of the forest that was recently damaged by fire. As we arrived in Valenca the first sight was the fortress with its high walls that surrounds the old town. Valenca is the last Portuguese town in the Portuguese Caminho as tomorrow we will cross the Minho river and enter Spain and continue our trek to Santiago. The old town is a typical tourist attraction - a few churches and so many shops selling (surprisingly) children cuddly wear, nice bedding and, of course, souvenirs. Nice place to shop, but not a reason for us to stay another day.

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Barcelos to Lugar do Corgos

We left the hotel by 8am to take advantage of the morning coolness. The trek continued to take us through farm villages, with a stop at 10am at a road cafe for coffee and apple strudel. It was a needed break as it was now starting to heat up. By 12 noon we still had 5km to go and running low on water. When we arrived at Casa de Fernanda we were all out of water and feeling very dehydrated, and  given the news that the Albergue was "complete". This is a famous Albergue run by Fernanda and her husband. We arrived without prior booking, and even though they were full, they accommodated us by shuffling some of the other guests. And what a great time we had! As more guests arrived, out came more beer and wine, and appies. Fernanda sure knows how to treat her guests well. And the dinner was fantastic with BBQ, salad and potatoes from her garden, with wine also home-made. Dinner was followed by singing around the table while sampling port liqueurs. It was the most awesome experience.

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Rates to Barcelos

The night at the Albergue was not pleasant. A big lady snored all night keeping everyone awake. Julie couldn't stand the noise and spent the early morning in another room reading.  Up at 6:00am, breakfast and out the door by 7:20am. Seems insane but it is much cooler walking in the morning compared to 31C in the afternoon. It was a pleasant walk going through a more upscale part of the farmland, with many beautiful modern homes. And the town of Barcelos was equally beautiful. Entering Barcelos by crossing the medieval bridge and greeted by an 18th century church. Barcelos is popular with many tourists interested in visiting the churches and beautiful gardens. And there are no shortage of cafes - with 2-3 on every block. With the temperature reaching 31C there are lots of sodas and beer going down. Another great day!

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Vila do Condo to Sao Pedro de Rates

It was a much shorter walk today traveling through the rural areas. Mostly on country roads lined with corn fields and a few vineyards. And the aroma of farm life was present the entire way. We were delighted when we arrived in the tiny hamlet of Rates with one Albergue, one mini market, one cafe and one restaurant. Just enough of everything to meet our needs. It was a hot day with very little wind compared to the day before along the coast, but the thirst was quenched quickly by a cold beer. Albergues are so much fun as we are able to meet pilgrims - today from Germany, Belgium, Denmark, Austria and Italy. The food tonight at San Antonio Bar and Grill was excellent - salmon and pork dinners with chilled vinho verde for 13E.

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Oporto to Vila do Conde

We took the metro to Mercado where we began our trek., following the coastline which was lined with 10km of boardwalks. This made for easier walking but there was a 1km stretch where we scrambled along the beach, which was very difficult and exhausting. We drank most of our water, which had been heated by the hot sun. It was a very interesting trek, passing by 100's of years of history - beaches where pirates landed to kill and enslave; many shipwrecks on the rocks and a WII German submarine sunk to make a reef. Vila do Conde is a small town on the edge of the river and Atlantic Ocean, with major attractions linked to the Catholic religion - medieval convent and churches. 

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Oprto, Portugal

As remembered from 25 years ago, Oporto is very hilly and the attractions are mainly on the river banks, with the wineries being the main reason to come to Oporto as are the restaurants that come alive at night. Oporto is showing its age, with many projects in progress to restore aging infrastructure. Nice place to spend a few days.


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