To Azanbuja

Sept 5, 2016 Azanbuja 20km

I have only one thing to say about today...HOT! I could barely keep up to Julie. We arrived to our hotel (Ouro). Big room with wifi and AC, and I didn't want to leave, but we had to buy some supplies. We ventured out looking for a grocery store, and when I opened the hotel door, it felt like I was opening a pizza oven door. And stores aren't always easy to find. Ask one person and sent in one direction. Ask another and sent in a new direction. I find ladies the best at giving directions. 

To Azinhaga

Sept 7, 2016 Azinhaga, 23km

Since we were leaving at 7am, Maria made us a picnic basket for breakfast. Such a nice lady. We made our way to the outskirts of town and descended with the Portas do Sol fortress at our back. Today's trek had two sections. The first half following the vineyards. The path was dusty most of the time but got to enjoy some of the fruit, and then decided to take the road to Azinhaga for the second half of the trek. The temperature was cooler today, down from 40+C to low 30s. I never thought I would ever think that 30C was cool!  After 6hours of trekking we finally arrived to Azinhaga. There's not much in this town, a few bars and one restaurant. So it was a blessing to find nice accommodations. We were the first to arrive and Helena gave us the master bedroom, which was spacious. Wifi mainly available in the common area, where there was a TV and bar on the honour system. Normally, Helena would do the cooking, and according to the reviews is a a fabulous cook, but today she had business affairs and therefore we had to fend for ourselves.

HAVEST SEASON - grapes, corn, sunflowers, tomatoes, peppers and melons.

To Santarem

Sept 6, 2016 Santarem 19km

A hot day expected (40c) and left the hotel at 7:30am to avoid the mid-day heat. We also took advantage of the shade of trees lining today's route. By noon we had 12km left to our destination....too hot and located the bus station to complete our journey. We arrived at Santarem at 1pm and located the tourism office to find our accommodations. This town is similar to most European towns- designed to get lost, which happened again. After 20 minutes of wandering the streets I asked  a local resident for directions, who walked us part way. I felt like an idiot having gone in a complete circle. But once we arrived at N1 Hostel, we were greeted by Maria who gave us lemon water on ice. A very interesting and hospitable person. The building is a cool modern design made mostly of concrete, with a lot of metal and glass for various entrances. And our room was ultra modern, with a huge shower area. Afterwards we headed to the Portas do Sol, an old castle/fortress overlooking the Tejo River. It was still very hot and decided to head back for another shower.  

Dinner was prepared by Maria, which included a starter, soup, main course, wine, dessert and coffee for 8.50E per person. What a feast! At the end of the meal the host brought out his special grappa. Our table included five other peregrinos, two of which were suffering from walking injuries. They were from Budapest, S. Korean studying in NY, Florida and Dublin. A most enjoyable evening.

To Vila Franca de Xira

Sept 4, 2016 Vila Franca de Xira 10km

It was not our intent to stop so early but decided to stay the night and enjoy this town noted for bull fighting and running of the bulls. The streets used for the run are lined with strong fencing, with some fencing going in front of some residential homes. The town is on the Teja River and great for walking. The town is quite large, but quaint. It was extremely hot today, and therefore this early stop was greatly appreciated.

To Verdelha de Baixo

Leaving Lisbon, passing 17 century queen

Sept 3, 2016 Verdelha de Baixo 23km

"You died so quick", Julie said. This statement had nothing to do with our love life, but about today's trek. I decided to shorten today's trek, as I knew I could not do 31km on our first day. How right I was, and even after 15km I was ready to pack it in. This section of the trek went through marsh lands and came to a section where Julie was shaking with fear not able to cross a farmer's irrigation gate. After 5 minutes of encouragement she made her way across, especially after seeing two cyclists put their bikes on their shoulders and then jumping across. It was another very hot day and we consumed about 3 litres of water. When we arrived to our destination we found our accommodation, and through the afternoon greeted many peregrinos, with tired and sweaty faces, who were so relieved to find accommodation, wash their cloths and get something to eat. Is this supposed to be fun? It was the first Camino for one couple from South Africa, who were surprised by the rustic look of the accommodations, but were relieved to have a bed. 

The arrows to follow along the camino.

Lisbon Sept 1-2

 Portugal 2016 Euro Champion 

Lisbon Sept 1-2

We arrived in central Lisbon at about 10am. We didn't sleep much on the plane and was surprised how wide awake we felt. We couldn't check in until 2pm and left our backpacks at the registration desk and went out to explore Lisbon. We decided to walk to St. Jorge Castle, but it took far too long to find the entrance gate. What a maze! I could see the castle, but could not find a direct route. I felt like a person in a corn maze. And we were not alone backtracking the streets. We kept meeting people who also came to the same dead-end streets or going around in circles. After getting oriented to the city we decided to make our way to the church to buy our credentials for the Camino. This ended up being another challenge locating Parish Maitres, and even when we found the parish, the gift shop was not the obvious location to buy the credential. It was located in another part of the church. With all important duties completed, off to lunch and back to our room for a siesta. The back streets of Lisbon are alive at night, with many restaurants serving local dishes. So many choices!

A lane lined with old photos of local residents.

View from our room

Day 2 in Lisbon was a test walk - a 20km trek in 30c heat. We followed the river towards the Atlantic Ocean, with our final destination being the two monuments representing Portugal's contribution to the Age of Discovery, the Belem Tower and the angular Monument to the Discoveries, an enormous monolith that leans over the River Tagus to resemble the prow of a caravel, the type of ship commanded by the Portuguese navigators in the 15th century. Julie is more comfortable with hot temperatures, but not me. Now I know how the Wicked Witch of the North felt -- "I'm melting".  We stopped at bar, but a large cold beer only quenched my thirst for the next 30 minutes. The water in the backpack was so hot it could be used to make tea. I'm going to die! But of course I did not, but I continued to consume liquids when we arrived back to our hotel. The evening was cool, which made for a pleasant dinner.

Not my photo. The monument is currently wrapped in tarps and is undergoing restoration.

Getting Ready for Caminho Portuguese

Making lists and checking them twice. And of course I've been studying Common Portuguese phrases.